What to Expect on Your First Nepal Trek: Complete Reality Check
5-7 hours with breaks (more than expected)
6:00-6:30 AM (every day)
Unheated, thin walls, shared bathrooms
$2-5, not always available, often disappointing
Mostly squat, freezing at night, paper management required
Dial-up era speeds, $3-5/day, unreliable
Harder than gym workouts, easier than feared
Harder than expected, rewarding beyond measure
You've booked your flight to Nepal, chosen your trek, maybe even bought fancy gear. You've watched YouTube videos of smiling trekkers posing at Everest Base Camp, read Instagram captions about "life-changing journeys," and imagined yourself conquering the Himalayas.
But here's what those photos don't show: the 3 AM bathroom trip to a squat toilet in -10°C temperatures, the fifth consecutive meal of dal bhat when you'd kill for a fresh salad, the moment on day 6 when your thighs burn from endless stone steps and you question every life decision that brought you here, or the strange intimacy of sleeping in a plywood room where you hear your neighbors' every snore and digestive sound.
This guide is the reality check nobody gives you before your first Nepal trek. Not to discourage you—trekking in Nepal is genuinely transformative and absolutely worth doing—but to prepare you for the actual experience rather than the Instagram version.
Introduction: Reality vs. Expectations for First-Timers
What You Imagined
Most first-time trekkers arrive in Nepal with expectations shaped by:
- Outdoor brand marketing: Images of happy people in pristine gear striding confidently through spectacular landscapes
- Travel blogs: Carefully curated stories emphasizing the epic moments
- Social media: Highlight reels showing summit celebrations and mountain sunrises
- Adventure films: Dramatic narratives where trekking looks like a spiritual journey punctuated by scenic breaks
This creates a mental model where trekking is essentially "hard hiking" through beautiful scenery with rustic-but-charming accommodation and deep cultural experiences.
The Actual Reality
Trekking in Nepal is simultaneously:
- Harder than expected in daily physical grind and mental stamina required
- Easier than expected in terms of technical difficulty and actual danger
- More uncomfortable than expected in accommodation, facilities, and daily logistics
- More rewarding than expected in ways completely unrelated to mountain views
The gap between expectation and reality is where most first-time trekkers struggle during days 3-5, before they adjust their mental framework and start appreciating the experience for what it actually is rather than what they imagined.
The Day 4 Crisis
Almost every first-time trekker hits a low point around day 4-5 when the initial excitement fades, the discomforts accumulate, and the finish line still seems impossibly far away. This is normal. It passes. Day 6+ are usually much better as you adapt mentally and physically.
Why This Guide Exists
This comprehensive reality check covers:
- What your typical day actually looks like, hour by hour
- The real conditions of tea houses, not the marketing photos
- Physical and mental challenges nobody adequately explains
- Practical details (toilets, showers, food, sleep) that dramatically impact your experience
- Unexpected difficulties and surprising pleasant aspects
- Mental strategies for managing the gap between expectation and reality
The goal isn't to scare you off—it's to prepare you so you can pack appropriately (mentally and physically), make informed decisions, and actually enjoy the trek rather than spending two weeks wishing it was different.
Daily Routine: What a Typical Trekking Day Actually Looks Like
Understanding the daily rhythm helps you prepare mentally for the repetitive structure that defines multi-day trekking.
Standard Day Timeline
6:00-6:30 AM - Wake Up
- Tea house staff starts moving around (you'll hear them through thin walls)
- Your roommate's alarm goes off (or yours)
- Room is freezing—temperature dropped overnight
- Condensation on inside of windows (or walls in humid season)
- Reluctantly emerge from sleeping bag to the cold room
- Put on the same hiking clothes you've been wearing for days
6:30-7:00 AM - Morning Routine
- Queue for bathroom/toilet (if shared)
- Quick face wash with cold water (hot water rarely available in morning)
- Brush teeth (remember to use bottled water at altitude)
- Repack your backpack for the day
- Charge devices if power is working
- Layer up for cold morning temperatures
7:00-8:00 AM - Breakfast
- Gather in dining room (usually the warmest place)
- Order breakfast (allow 20-40 minutes for preparation)
- Common choices: porridge, Tibetan bread, pancakes, eggs, toast
- Drink lots of tea (hydration important)
- Social time with other trekkers
- Settle previous night's bill
- Fill water bottles for the day
Morning Eating Strategy
8:00-8:30 AM - Departure
- Put on hiking boots (if you took them off the night before)
- Apply sunscreen
- Pack snacks in accessible pocket
- Final bathroom break
- Say goodbye to tea house family
- Start hiking (finally!)
8:30 AM - 12:30 PM - Morning Trek Session
- This is your primary hiking block—usually 3-4 hours
- Morning energy levels are highest
- Trails often steepest in morning (gaining altitude to next village)
- Stop every 45-60 minutes for short breaks
- Drink water consistently
- Snack on trail (nuts, chocolate, biscuits)
- Shed layers as you warm up from exertion
Morning trek sensations:
- First 30 minutes: Legs stiff, body adjusting to movement
- Hour 1-2: Hit your stride, feeling good, enjoying scenery
- Hour 2-3: Starting to think about lunch
- Hour 3-4: Definitely ready for lunch, losing motivation
12:30-2:00 PM - Lunch Stop
- Arrive at planned lunch tea house
- Remove boots, rest legs
- Order lunch (allow 30-45 minutes for preparation)
- Popular choices: dal bhat, fried rice, noodle soup, momos
- Rehydrate thoroughly
- Charge devices if possible
- Social time with your group or other trekkers
- Bathroom break
- Rest properly—don't rush this
Lunch Stop Duration
Factor 1.5-2 hours for lunch stops. This isn't lazy—your body needs proper rest and digestion time. Rushing lunch leads to afternoon sluggishness and digestive issues.
2:00-4:30 PM - Afternoon Trek Session
- Resume hiking (usually 1.5-3 hours)
- This is the harder session mentally
- Post-lunch sluggishness
- Afternoon sun can be intense
- Pack feels heavier than morning
- Legs more fatigued
- More frequent breaks needed
Afternoon trek sensations:
- Hour 1: Post-lunch heaviness, wish you hadn't eaten so much
- Hour 1.5-2: Second wind arrives (or doesn't)
- Hour 2-3: Destination town starts appearing in distance
- Final 30 minutes: Motivated by proximity, energy for final push
4:30-5:00 PM - Arrive at Overnight Stop
- Reach day's destination village
- Scout tea houses (if not pre-arranged)
- Choose room (if options available)
- Secure a bed
- Remove boots (relief!)
- Immediate: feet up, rest
5:00-6:00 PM - Settlement and Washing
- Unpack for the evening
- Organize sleeping bag on bed
- Set up charging station for devices
- Decide on shower (pay, wait for hot water timing)
- Or simple wash: face, hands, feet, armpits
- Change socks (crucial foot care)
- Put on warm layers (temperature dropping)
- Hand wash small items if needed
6:00-7:30 PM - Social/Rest Time
- Gather in dining room (warmest place, sometimes has stove)
- Order dinner
- Play cards with other trekkers
- Write journal
- Look at trail map for tomorrow
- Charge devices
- Hot drinks (ginger lemon honey tea is standard)
- This is when tea house community feeling develops
7:30-8:30 PM - Dinner
- Dinner served
- Everyone typically eats together
- Main social time of the day
- Share trail stories, compare plans
- Dal bhat for many (unlimited refills help recovery)
- Settle evening bill
- Plan tomorrow's start time with group/guide
8:30-9:00 PM - Evening Wind Down
- Final hot drink
- Final bathroom trip (pre-bedtime strategy)
- Brush teeth
- Fill water bottles for night (altitude thirst)
- Prepare headlamp for night bathroom trips
- Get into all your warm layers
- Retreat to freezing bedroom
9:00-9:30 PM - Bed
- Into sleeping bag quickly (room is cold)
- Read or phone time (if battery allows)
- Lights out
- Attempt to sleep despite: cold, altitude, unfamiliar sounds, neighbor noises
- Probably wake up 1-3 times for bathroom trips
Night realities:
- Rooms are unheated (except occasional luxury lodges)
- Outside temperature might be -10°C to +5°C depending on altitude/season
- You'll hear everything through thin walls
- Bathroom trips require: getting out of warm sleeping bag, finding clothes, headlamp, shoes, walking to toilet, returning to now-cold bed, warming up again
- Many trekkers minimize night drinking to avoid bathroom trips
Daily Statistics Reality Check
Actual hiking time: 5-7 hours of moving time Total day duration: 12-13 hours from wake to sleep Vertical ascent: 300-800m typical (some days more) Vertical descent: 0-500m typical (some days more) Distance covered: 8-15 km (less than expected—it's about elevation, not distance) Calories burned: 2,500-4,000 depending on person and terrain Steps taken: 15,000-25,000 Water consumed: 3-5 liters (should be—many drink too little) Photos taken: 50-200 (if you're that type)
Energy Levels Throughout Day (Typical First-Timer)
| 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6:00 AM | 30% | Groggy, reluctant | Why is it so cold? |
| 8:00 AM | 60% | Motivated after breakfast | Ready to hike! |
| 10:00 AM | 85% | In the zone | This is amazing! |
| 12:00 PM | 65% | Ready for lunch | How much further? |
| 2:00 PM | 45% | Post-lunch slump | Should've eaten less |
| 3:30 PM | 55% | Grinding through | Are we there yet? |
| 4:45 PM | 70% | End in sight | Almost there! |
| 6:00 PM | 40% | Exhausted but happy | Boots off = heaven |
| 8:00 PM | 50% | Fed and social | Today was hard but good |
| 9:00 PM | 30% | Just want to sleep | Tomorrow repeat... |
What Nobody Tells You About Daily Routine
It's repetitive: Same structure every day for 10-15 days. This is comforting for some, monotonous for others.
You eat constantly: Breakfast, snacks, lunch, snacks, dinner, maybe evening snack. Your body needs constant fuel.
Time moves strangely: Hours of hiking feel long, but days blur together. You'll lose track of what day it is.
You settle into a rhythm: Around day 4-5, the routine becomes automatic. This is when trekking becomes meditative rather than challenging.
Evening social time is crucial: This is what prevents the experience from being just a physical slog. The community that develops in dining rooms is unexpectedly important to morale.
You go to bed early: 9-10 PM becomes normal bedtime. You're exhausted, there's nothing to do, and you're waking early anyway.
Weather dictates mood: A sunny morning transforms spirits. A rainy day crushes morale. You become very weather-aware.
Accommodation Reality: Tea House Conditions Nobody Explains
Tea houses are not hotels, hostels, or guesthouses in the typical sense. They're basic mountain lodges with unique characteristics that surprise first-timers.
Room Conditions
The Reality of "Twin Room":
- Two single beds (thin foam mattresses on plywood platforms)
- Beds might be nailed to walls (no moving them)
- Gap between beds: 20-50 cm typically
- Privacy from roommate: basically none
- Mattress thickness: 5-10 cm foam
- Mattress quality: lumpy, aged, sometimes with suspicious stains
- Pillows: thin, often just folded blankets
Bedding provided:
- Sheet (hopefully clean—check for hair)
- Blanket (heavy wool or synthetic, usually 1-2 per bed)
- Pillow with pillowcase
- Note: Blankets are rarely washed (used by hundreds of trekkers)
- This is why you bring a sleeping bag liner
Sleeping Bag Essential
Room temperature:
- Reality: Rooms are UNHEATED (except some luxury lodges)
- Below 3,000m: Room temperature roughly equals outside temperature at night
- Above 3,000m: Inside might be slightly warmer than outside, but still freezing
- Typical night temperatures:
- 2,000-3,000m: 5-15°C
- 3,000-4,000m: -5 to 5°C
- 4,000m+: -10 to 0°C
You will be cold at night. Accept this now.
Wall thickness and sound insulation:
- Walls are often plywood or thin wooden planks
- You hear EVERYTHING from adjacent rooms
- Snoring, conversations, coughing, farting, intimate moments, digestive sounds
- You become intimate with strangers' sleep patterns
- Earplugs become essential gear
Room size:
- Tiny—just enough for two beds and minimal floor space
- You live out of your backpack (no closet or drawers)
- Getting dressed requires careful choreography
- If you drop something, it rolls under bed into dusty oblivion
Windows:
- Often single-pane or just plastic sheeting
- May not close completely (cold air gaps)
- Condensation forms on inside overnight (from your breathing)
- At altitude, frost can form on inside of windows
- View quality varies: mountain vista or wall of adjacent building
Electricity:
- Usually available for lighting (LED bulbs, dim)
- Socket in room: sometimes, not always
- Power timing: often only evening hours (6-9 PM typical)
- Charging devices: sometimes in room, often must leave in dining room
- Voltage fluctuations common (use quality adapters)
- Outages frequent (have headlamp ready)
Cleanliness:
- Standards vary enormously between tea houses
- Dust accumulation in corners (hard to clean at altitude)
- Sweeping daily: better tea houses
- Deep cleaning: rare
- Bed bug risk: low but non-zero (check mattress seams)
- General cleanliness: acceptable by mountain standards, not by city hotel standards
Bathroom Facilities
The Toilet Situation (this deserves its own brutal honesty section):
Toilet types you'll encounter:
- Squat toilet: Porcelain footpads, hole in floor, bucket for flushing (most common above 3,000m)
- Western-style toilet: Ceramic bowl, seat, tank (lower altitudes, some higher lodges charge extra)
- Hybrid: Western toilet that people have destroyed by squatting on seat (common and frustrating)
Squat toilet reality:
- Your thighs burn from squatting (already tired from trekking)
- Balance is challenging (especially with altitude dizziness)
- Aim is critical (walls/floors show previous failures)
- Toilet paper management required (can't flush in most places)
- Bin for used paper (or lack of bin, leading to piles)
- Flashlight essential for night visits (often no light)
Flushing system:
- Bucket of water with cup/scoop
- You manually flush by pouring water
- Sometimes tanks work, often don't
- Water freezes overnight at altitude (no flushing until morning melt)
- Some lodges turn off water at night to prevent pipe freezing
Temperature:
- Toilet rooms are COLD
- Often outdoor or semi-outdoor construction
- No heating ever
- Night trips at altitude: genuinely -10°C or colder
- Sitting on cold toilet seat: shock to your system
- This is why many trekkers minimize evening water intake
Cleanliness:
- Varies from "acceptably clean" to "horror show"
- Better tea houses clean multiple times daily
- High-altitude toilets get dirty faster (so many users, minimal water)
- Your standards will adjust quickly
- Bring your own toilet paper always
Shared vs. Private:
- Most tea houses: shared bathrooms (2-4 toilets for 10-20 rooms)
- Higher-price rooms: sometimes attached bathroom
- Attached bathroom fee: +$5-15/night
- Is attached worth it? Usually yes at altitude (no freezing walk)
Night bathroom trips:
- Wake with full bladder (altitude increases urination)
- Debate: hold it vs. brave the cold
- Admit defeat, must go
- Extract self from warm sleeping bag
- Find headlamp, shoes, jacket
- Navigate dark hallway
- Find toilet in dark (hope nobody's using it)
- Endure freezing temperatures while using toilet
- Return to room
- Get back in sleeping bag (now feels cold)
- Take 20 minutes to warm up again
- Repeat 1-2 more times per night
Pee Bottle Strategy
Many experienced trekkers use a designated pee bottle for night use (wide-mouth Nalgene bottle). This is common and accepted. It eliminates freezing bathroom trips. Empty it in the morning. This sounds gross before your trek but becomes genius by day 3.
Washing Facilities
Shower availability:
- Not available every day or every tea house
- Higher altitude = less shower availability
- Some villages have no showers at all above 4,000m
Shower types:
- Solar shower: Water heated by sun, available afternoon/evening only
- Gas shower: Hot water from gas heater, expensive
- Bucket shower: Hot water in bucket, you scoop and pour
- No shower: Just a cold water tap
Hot shower cost:
- Lower altitude (under 3,000m): $2-3
- Mid altitude (3,000-4,000m): $3-5
- Higher altitude (4,000m+): $5-8 if available at all
- Payment before use (hot water is expensive at altitude)
Hot shower reality:
- "Hot" is relative—maybe lukewarm
- Water pressure: weak trickle often
- Temperature fluctuates wildly
- Might run out of hot water mid-shower
- Bathroom freezing cold (no heating)
- You'll be colder after showering than before
- Must dress quickly before losing all body heat
Shower timing strategy:
- Afternoon is best (solar water warmest, before evening rush)
- Evening showers: water cooling down, might be cold
- Morning showers: rarely available, water still heating
When to skip showers:
- Above 4,000m (risk not worth it—too cold, too expensive)
- When sick or experiencing altitude symptoms
- Very cold weather days
- When tea house has no good facility
Alternatives to showering:
- Wet wipes: full body wipe down (armpits, groin, feet)
- Basin wash: request basin of hot water, wash in room
- Bandana bath: wet bandana, soap, strategic washing
- Face washing: daily minimum
How often trekkers actually shower:
- Optimistic plan: every other day
- Reality: every 3-4 days
- Above 4,000m: maybe once during entire high altitude section
- You'll smell. Everyone smells. Nobody cares.
Dining Room
The dining room is the heart of every tea house and often the only heated space.
Layout:
- Communal tables (long tables, bench seating typical)
- Central stove (when fuel available and season appropriate)
- Prayer flags, photos, decorations
- Charging station area (power strips with devices)
- Kitchen visible or semi-separated
- Windows overlooking trail or mountains
Heating:
- Yak dung stove: Traditional, smoky, provides wonderful warmth (lower altitudes)
- Wood stove: Common, expensive at altitude, only lit peak season evenings
- No heating: Many tea houses above 3,500m don't heat dining room
- Stove timing: Usually lit 6-8 PM for dinner crowd
- Fuel cost: $3-5 per person for stove use (sometimes charged)
Atmosphere:
- Everyone congregates here (only warm place)
- Social hub—this is where trekking friendships form
- Story sharing, trail advice, card games
- Can get crowded (20+ people in small room)
- Noise level high during dinner hours
- After 9 PM: usually quiet (everyone sleeping)
What you'll do here:
- All meals
- Charging devices (leave phone on table with your name on it)
- Socializing with other trekkers
- Planning next day with guide
- Writing journal
- Playing cards (UNO is universal)
- Warming up before bed
- Procrastinating returning to cold bedroom
Typical Tea House Costs
Tea House Accommodation Pricing (2026)
| 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Below 2,500m | $3-5 | $2-3 | Free-$1 | $2-3/day |
| 2,500-3,000m | $5-8 | $3-4 | $1-2 | $3-4/day |
| 3,000-3,500m | $8-12 | $4-5 | $2-3 | $4-5/day |
| 3,500-4,000m | $10-15 | $5-7 | $3-4 | $5-6/day |
| 4,000m+ | $15-25 | $7-10 (rare) | $4-5 | $6-8/day (slow) |
Pricing model reality:
- Rooms are cheap because lodges profit from food sales
- The higher you go, the more expensive everything becomes (transport costs)
- Peak season (Oct-Nov, Mar-May): rooms might require booking
- Off-season: negotiate prices possible
- If you don't eat at a tea house, they may charge more for the room
Hidden costs that add up:
- Hot shower: $3-5 each
- Device charging: $2-4/day
- WiFi: $3-5/day
- Boiled/filtered water: $1-3/liter
- Stove heating fee: $3-5/evening (some tea houses)
- Attached bathroom: +$5-10/night premium
Luxury vs. Budget Tea Houses
Budget tea houses (typical experience):
- Plywood walls, basic beds, shared bathrooms
- Squat toilets, bucket washing
- Communal dining, simple menu
- Inconsistent electricity, slow WiFi
- Cost: $3-8/night
Standard tea houses (most common):
- Wooden construction, thin mattresses, shared facilities
- Mix of squat and western toilets
- Solar showers (when working)
- Decent dining room, extensive menu
- Evening electricity, WiFi available
- Cost: $8-15/night
"Luxury" tea houses (rare, lower altitudes):
- Attached bathrooms, better mattresses
- Consistent hot water, western toilets
- Heated dining room (sometimes heated rooms)
- Reliable electricity, faster WiFi
- Nicer food presentation
- Cost: $20-40/night
Luxury Tea House Reality
Mental Preparation for Accommodation
Key mindset adjustments:
-
You're not on vacation—you're on an expedition. Accommodation is shelter, not hospitality.
-
Discomfort is part of the experience, not a problem to solve. You can't make it comfortable; you can only accept it.
-
Compare to camping, not to hotels. Tea houses are luxury compared to tent camping at altitude.
-
Everyone shares the same conditions—that millionaire in your dining room is just as cold and unwashed as you are.
-
The discomfort makes the accomplishment meaningful. If it were comfortable, everyone would do it.
-
Cultural context matters: This is normal life for mountain communities, not unusual conditions.
-
Temporary situation: You return to hot showers and soft beds soon. This knowledge helps endure the present.
Food Reality: What You'll Actually Eat for Two Weeks
Food on trek is not about culinary adventure—it's fuel for your body and comfort for your mind. Understanding the menu reality helps set appropriate expectations.
The Standard Tea House Menu
Every tea house has remarkably similar menus (prices coordinated by local committees). You'll see these items repeatedly:
Breakfast options:
- Porridge: Oatmeal with sugar, sometimes fruit, sometimes nuts ($3-5)
- Tibetan bread: Fried dough bread, dense and filling ($2-4)
- Pancakes: Usually thin, not fluffy American-style, with jam or honey ($3-5)
- Toast with jam: Simple white bread toast ($2-3)
- Eggs: Fried, scrambled, or boiled ($2-4)
- Hash browns: Sometimes available lower altitude ($3-4)
- Muesli: With milk (powdered) and maybe fruit ($4-6)
Lunch/Dinner mains:
- Dal bhat: Rice, lentil soup, vegetable curry, pickle—unlimited refills ($5-10)
- Fried rice: Vegetable, egg, or chicken variations ($4-8)
- Noodle soup: Thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) or various ramen ($4-7)
- Momos: Dumplings (vegetable, potato, chicken, or buffalo) ($5-8)
- Pizza: Questionable but available ($6-10)
- Pasta: Usually simple tomato or cheese sauce ($5-9)
- Chow mein: Stir-fried noodles ($5-8)
- Spring rolls: Fried vegetable rolls ($4-6)
- Sherpa stew: Potato-based hearty stew ($5-8)
Drinks:
- Black tea: Standard Nepali chiya ($1-2)
- Milk tea: Sweet tea with milk ($1-2)
- Lemon tea: Hot water, lemon, sometimes honey ($1-3)
- Ginger lemon honey tea: The trekker's medicine ($2-4)
- Hot chocolate: Powdered mix ($2-4)
- Coffee: Usually instant Nescafe ($2-4)
- Soft drinks: Coke, Sprite, Fanta ($2-5, price increases with altitude)
- Beer: Available lower altitudes ($4-7, not recommended above 3,000m)
Dal Bhat: Your New Best Friend
Dal Bhat Power, 24 Hour!
This is the trekker's mantra. Dal bhat (rice and lentils) provides complete nutrition, unlimited refills, and consistent energy. Most experienced trekkers eat it once or twice daily. It's unglamorous but effective fuel.
Why dal bhat dominates:
- Unlimited refills: Pay once, eat as much as you need (rice and dal unlimited, curry often too)
- Complete protein: Rice + lentils = all essential amino acids
- Calorie-dense: Supports high energy expenditure
- Digestible: Simple, spiced for altitude-suppressed appetites
- Always available: Never sold out, always fresh batch
- Best value: Most calories and nutrition per dollar
- Familiar to cooks: Consistently prepared well
- Local food: Made fresh daily with real ingredients
Why you'll resist dal bhat initially:
- Looks boring compared to "pizza" option
- Same dish every tea house
- Not what you're craving (you want comfort food)
- Pride (you're not "that" trekker yet who eats dal bhat twice daily)
Why you'll convert to dal bhat by day 5:
- The "pizza" was disappointing
- The "pasta" was worse
- Dal bhat is actually delicious when you're exhausted
- Unlimited refills matter when you're burning 4,000 calories/day
- It's the only thing that makes you feel actually full
- Your body stops craving variety and just wants fuel
Dal bhat conversion timeline:
- Day 1-3: Trying everything on menu, avoiding dal bhat
- Day 4-6: Grudgingly trying dal bhat, admitting it's good
- Day 7+: Eating dal bhat twice daily, preaching about it to newcomers
- Post-trek: Craving dal bhat at home (this happens to everyone)
Western Food Reality
Tea houses offer "Western" dishes, but they're Nepali interpretations with limited ingredients at altitude.
Pizza reality:
- Dough is fine
- "Cheese" is minimal (cheese is expensive at altitude)
- Toppings are creative interpretations (don't expect pepperoni)
- Cooked in kerosene ovens or makeshift setups
- Usually disappointing by pizza standards
- But sometimes exactly what your brain craves
- Cost: $7-12
Pasta reality:
- Usually instant noodles dressed up
- "Tomato sauce" often ketchup-based
- Cheese sauce is powdered cheese mix
- Overcooked (altitude + pressure cooking)
- Not terrible, not great
- Fills your stomach
- Cost: $6-10
Burger reality:
- Buffalo or yak patty (rarely beef)
- Bun is fried bread or regular bread
- Lettuce/tomato only at lower altitudes
- Actually sometimes quite good
- But expensive relative to value
- Cost: $6-9
Fries/chips reality:
- Often excellent (potatoes are local)
- Fried fresh
- Seasoning simple but satisfying
- Good comfort food
- Cost: $3-5
Sandwich reality:
- Basic bread, cheese, tomato, maybe egg
- Simple but reliable
- Good lunch option
- Not filling enough for dinner
- Cost: $4-6
Food Ordering Strategy
Food Quality by Altitude
Below 3,000m:
- Fresh vegetables available
- Varied menu items actually good
- Fruit sometimes available
- Better ingredient quality
- More skilled cooks (bigger lodges)
3,000-3,500m:
- Fresh vegetables becoming limited
- Potatoes, cabbage, carrots dominant
- Onions and garlic always available
- Frozen chicken/buffalo used
- Menu items still mostly available
3,500-4,000m:
- Very limited fresh vegetables (mostly potato, cabbage)
- Most protein is dried or frozen
- Menu shrinks (many items crossed out)
- Quality declines (ingredients are old or limited)
- Dal bhat becomes most reliable option
Above 4,000m:
- Survival food mode
- Dal bhat, noodle soup, basic breakfast items
- "Pizza" and "pasta" still listed but inadvisable
- Everything is expensive (porter transport cost)
- Food safety becomes concern (limited refrigeration)
Dietary Restrictions Reality
Vegetarian:
- Easy—most food is vegetarian already
- Dal bhat is vegetarian standard
- Plenty of options
- This is possibly easier than at home
Vegan:
- Challenging but possible
- Dal bhat (specify no yogurt/curd)
- Vegetables and rice
- Limited protein sources
- Bring supplemental protein powder
- Tea with soy milk (request in advance, not always available)
Gluten-free:
- Difficult above 3,000m
- Rice-based meals work (dal bhat)
- Potatoes available
- Bread is everywhere (hard to avoid)
- Bring gluten-free snacks from Kathmandu
- Communicate clearly with cooks
Allergies:
- Communicate clearly and repeatedly
- Cross-contamination likely in small kitchens
- Peanut oil sometimes used (ask about cooking oil)
- If severely allergic, bring own food
- Epi-pens essential if at risk
Lactose intolerance:
- Manageable
- Milk powder used (some people tolerate better)
- Can avoid dairy (no butter, no yogurt, black tea)
- Plant milk rarely available
Appetite at Altitude
What happens to appetite:
- Below 3,000m: Normal hunger, normal portions
- 3,000-3,500m: Slightly reduced appetite, food less appealing
- 3,500-4,000m: Noticeably reduced appetite, must force eating
- Above 4,000m: Significant appetite suppression, nothing sounds good
Altitude appetite effects:
- Smell of food can be nauseating
- Thought of food unappetizing
- Large portions overwhelming
- Sweet foods more tolerable than savory (for some people)
- Warm soup easier than solid food
- Must eat despite lack of hunger (your body needs fuel)
Force Feeding Necessary
At high altitude, you must eat even when you don't want to. Bonking (running out of energy) is dangerous at altitude. Eat small amounts frequently rather than large meals. Simple carbs (biscuits, chocolate) often more tolerable than full meals.
Common eating patterns by day:
- Day 1-4: Eating normally, exploring menu
- Day 5-7: Appetite decreasing, defaulting to favorites
- Day 8-10: (If going high) Forcing food down, living on soup and biscuits
- Day 10-12: (If descending) Appetite returning, eating everything
- Last days: Food tastes amazing again, eating huge portions
Hydration Reality
Water is more important than food, but proper hydration requires strategy.
Water sources:
- Boiled water: Order from tea house ($1-3/liter, increases with altitude)
- Filtered water: Some tea houses have filters ($1-2/liter)
- Bottled water: Available but environmentally terrible ($1-4/bottle)
- Stream water + purification: Free but requires tablets or filter
Recommended daily intake:
- 3-5 liters per day (more than you think)
- Increase at higher altitude
- Increase on hot days
- Increase if experiencing symptoms
Hydration challenges:
- Carrying enough water (3L is heavy)
- Water freezing in bottles overnight
- Cost adds up ($3-5/day if buying all)
- Bathroom trip consequences (less drinking = less peeing)
- Remembering to drink (easy to forget when cold)
Practical hydration system:
- Two 1L Nalgene bottles (wide-mouth, insulated covers)
- Fill at each tea house stop
- Hot water at night (stays warm longer, doesn't freeze)
- Purification tablets or filter as backup
- Track intake (aim for pale yellow urine)
Food Budget Reality
Expect to spend on food:
- Budget approach: $15-20/day (dal bhat, simple breakfasts, tea)
- Standard approach: $25-35/day (variety of menu items, snacks, hot drinks)
- Comfort approach: $40-50/day (whatever you want, plus treats)
Costs increase with altitude—that $5 dal bhat at 2,500m becomes $10 dal bhat at 4,500m.
Snack Strategy
Essential trekking snacks:
- Energy bars (bring from Kathmandu or home)
- Chocolate bars (available in villages, price increases with altitude)
- Nuts (peanuts, cashews—buy in Kathmandu)
- Biscuits (cookies—available everywhere)
- Dried fruit (bring from Kathmandu)
- Candy (quick energy)
Snacking frequency:
- Break every 45-60 minutes
- Small snack each break (few nuts, some chocolate)
- Consistent energy rather than bonking then huge meal
- Especially important when appetite suppressed
Snack costs:
- Bring from Kathmandu: very cheap
- Buy in villages: 2-3x Kathmandu price
- Buy at altitude: 4-5x Kathmandu price
- Lesson: stock up before your trek starts
Strange Food Cravings
What trekkers unexpectedly crave:
- Fresh salad (unavailable at altitude—hygiene risk anyway)
- Fruit (very limited above 3,000m)
- Carbonation (Sprite becomes liquid gold)
- Dairy (cheese, yogurt)
- Meat (protein craving)
- Anything cold (ice cream fantasies)
- Salt (sweat loss)
- Sour things (pickles, achar becomes favorite)
What sounds disgusting:
- Often the things you loved at home
- Rich foods
- Heavy foods
- Your previous favorites might repulse you
Post-trek eating:
- Everything tastes incredible
- Fresh vegetables are orgasmic
- You'll eat enormous quantities
- Body rebalancing after calorie deficit
Food Safety
Generally safe:
- Hot, freshly cooked food
- Dal bhat (always made fresh)
- Boiled/fried items
- Packaged snacks
- Boiled water
Risk items:
- Raw vegetables: Washed in local water (contamination risk)
- Salad: Generally avoid above 3,000m
- Meat: Quality degrades with altitude (no refrigeration)
- Dairy: Can spoil without refrigeration
- Leftover food: Reheated items
- Ice: Made from unfiltered water
Getting sick from food:
- Happens to about 30% of trekkers at some point
- Usually mild: 1-2 days of digestive issues
- Severe cases rare but trek-ending
- Bring Imodium and rehydration salts
- Avoid food risks when already at altitude (compounding problems)
Food Poisoning vs. Altitude Sickness
Toilet Situation: The Brutal Truth Nobody Shares
The toilet situation is one of the most challenging aspects of Nepal trekking, yet guidebooks gloss over it with euphemisms. Here's the unfiltered reality.
Types of Toilets You'll Encounter
Squat Toilets (Most Common Above 3,000m):
Physical structure:
- Porcelain or cement footpads on either side of hole
- Hole leads to pit or septic tank below
- Walls (usually), roof (usually), door (usually)
- No seat, no toilet paper holder, minimal amenities
How to use:
- Position feet on footpads, facing direction indicated
- Squat down (thighs parallel to ground, or as close as possible)
- Do your business
- Wipe with toilet paper (or water, traditional method)
- Place used paper in bin provided (or on floor pile if no bin)
- Scoop water from bucket using cup/dipper
- Pour water into hole to flush
- Exit, wash hands (if water available)
Squat toilet challenges:
- Thigh burn: Your legs are already tired from trekking, now you're squatting
- Balance: Especially difficult if dizzy from altitude
- Aim: More challenging than it sounds, especially in the dark
- Flexibility: Required more than you might possess
- Paper placement: Used paper cannot be flushed, must go in bin
- No bin: Sometimes paper accumulates in corner (grim reality)
- Smell: Ventilation often poor
- Darkness: Light switch doesn't work, or no light at all
Western-Style Toilets (Lower Altitudes, Some Upgraded Tea Houses):
When available:
- Most lodges below 2,500m
- Newer/renovated tea houses at any altitude
- Attached bathroom rooms (premium cost)
- Sometimes in shared bathroom alongside squat options
Western toilet reality in Nepal:
- Often damaged from misuse (people squatting on seat)
- Cracked seats common
- Toilet paper still can't be flushed (septic system limitations)
- Bucket flush system (tank doesn't work)
- Still cold room
- Still might not have working light
- Better than squat, but not home-quality
The Hybrid Horror:
- Western toilet that locals/trekkers have squatted on
- Footprints on seat
- Broken seat hinges
- Worst of both worlds
- Common in transition zones
The Night Toilet Trip Reality
This is the true test of trekking commitment.
The scenario:
- Time: 2 AM
- Outside temperature: -5°C to -15°C (depending on altitude)
- Your room: Also freezing, maybe -5°C to 0°C
- You: Warm in sleeping bag
- Your bladder: Full (altitude increases urination)
The process:
- Denial phase (5 minutes): Try to ignore it, try to sleep, fail
- Acceptance phase: Must go, no choice
- Preparation:
- Locate headlamp in dark
- Find warm jacket (you've been sleeping in it anyway)
- Find shoes (cold, probably frozen if near door)
- Summon courage to leave sleeping bag
- The exit:
- Unzip sleeping bag (warm air escapes)
- Hit by freezing room air
- Fumble into shoes
- Find door, try not to wake roommate
- The journey:
- Navigate dark hallway with headlamp
- Avoid creaky floorboards (fail)
- Locate toilet (is someone already there?)
- Wait in freezing hallway if occupied
- The toilet:
- Open door to even colder toilet room
- Squat or sit on freezing seat
- Finish as quickly as possible
- Bucket flush (water might be frozen—scoop out ice first)
- Paper in bin (if you remember)
- The return:
- Navigate back to room
- Quietly re-enter
- Remove shoes, jacket
- Get back in sleeping bag (IT'S COLD NOW)
- Shiver for 15-20 minutes until sleeping bag rewarms
- Finally fall back asleep
- Wake up 2 hours later needing to go again
This happens 1-3 times per night at altitude.
The Pee Bottle Solution
Wide-mouth Nalgene bottle designated for nighttime urination. Controversial to mention, universal in practice. Eliminates the freezing toilet journey. Empty in morning. Label it clearly. This is standard practice for high-altitude trekking—guides and porters do it, experienced trekkers do it, you will probably do it by day 5.
Toilet Hygiene Reality
What's provided:
- Toilet structure (usually)
- Bucket of water (usually)
- Cup/dipper for flushing (usually)
- Bin for paper (sometimes)
- Light (sometimes works)
- Toilet paper (rarely—bring your own always)
What's NOT provided:
- Toilet seat (squat toilets)
- Toilet paper (assume never provided)
- Hand soap (rarely)
- Hand towel (never)
- Air freshener (definitely not)
- Seat covers (obviously not)
- Warm temperature (never)
Personal hygiene supplies to carry:
- Full toilet paper rolls (not individual packs—you'll use more than expected)
- Hand sanitizer (essential—use after every toilet visit)
- Wet wipes (for when toilet paper isn't enough)
- Small bag for carrying used paper (some trails require pack-out)
- Tissues (backup when toilet paper runs out)
Hand washing reality:
- Water tap outside toilet (cold water)
- Soap rarely provided
- Hand sanitizer is your main hygiene method
- In winter, water taps freeze
- Sanitizer also freezes (keep in inner pocket)
Toilet Paper Management
The rules (varies by area):
- Most tea houses: paper goes in bin (not in toilet)
- Some higher-altitude areas: pack out all paper (environmental regulations)
- Never burn it (fire risk, doesn't burn completely anyway)
- Never leave it on trail (someone will judge you, wildlife will scatter it)
Why can't you flush paper:
- Septic systems can't handle it
- Plumbing clogs easily
- No water treatment plants at altitude
- Environmental impact in mountain ecology
Used paper bin reality:
- Open bin (smell is...present)
- Overflowing (emptied irregularly)
- Fruit flies if warm season
- Just don't look too closely
- This is normal—everyone does it
Alternative method:
- Water cleaning (traditional method, actually more hygienic)
- Use left hand with water (right hand for eating—always)
- Soap and sanitize thoroughly after
- Many trekkers convert to this method
- Less paper waste, cleaner feeling
- Requires getting over cultural squeamishness
Toilet Locations and Accessibility
Shared bathroom setup (most common):
- 2-4 toilets for 10-20 rooms
- Located outside room (short walk down hallway or outside)
- Occupied when you need them (Murphy's Law)
- Queue possible during morning rush
Attached bathroom (premium rooms):
- Private toilet in your room
- Eliminates night journey
- Still unheated, still basic
- Worth the extra $5-10/night at altitude
- Limited availability (book ahead if possible)
Outdoor toilets:
- Some tea houses have external toilet buildings
- Requires going outside (in weather)
- Even colder
- More stars visible (silver lining)
- Wildlife possible (yaks, dogs)
Emergency situations:
- Diarrhea + squat toilet + altitude dizziness = challenging
- Have headlamp always accessible
- Know location of nearest toilet before bed
- Consider attached bathroom if having digestive issues
Altitude-Specific Toilet Challenges
Above 4,000m additional problems:
- Water freezes overnight (no flushing until morning)
- Pipes freeze (toilets unusable until thawed)
- Increased urgency (altitude affects bladder control)
- Breathlessness while squatting (exertion at altitude)
- Dizziness when standing up (altitude + blood pressure)
- Extreme cold (exposed skin can get frostbite)
The morning ice situation:
- Toilet water frozen solid
- Must wait for sun/staff to bring hot water
- Or manually break ice with stick
- Morning bathroom rush backlog
- This is why everyone gets up so early
Women-Specific Toilet Realities
Additional challenges:
- Squatting more physically demanding
- Paper rationing (need more than men)
- Menstruation management (bring supplies from home—tampons not available)
- Privacy concerns (doors don't always lock)
- Pee funnel devices (some women swear by them, especially for pee bottle use)
Menstruation on trek:
- Bring all supplies from Kathmandu/home (nothing available on trail)
- Pack-out system for used products (carry small drybag)
- Hygiene challenging (limited washing facilities)
- Consider menstrual cup (reduce waste, easier to manage)
- Or period delay medication (consult doctor before trek)
- Tea houses have no disposal system for sanitary products
Digestive Issues and Toilets
Common trekking digestive problems:
- Diarrhea (from food, water, or altitude)
- Constipation (from dehydration or altitude)
- Urgency (less control over timing)
Diarrhea + squat toilet scenario:
- Difficult enough at sea level
- At altitude with thin air and dizziness: nightmare
- Multiple trips per night
- Dehydration concerns
- Need oral rehydration salts
- Consider attached bathroom if possible
- Imodium for emergencies (use cautiously)
Constipation + squat toilet:
- Prolonged squatting required (leg fatigue)
- Straining at altitude (dangerous—can trigger AMS symptoms)
- Need more fiber, more water
- Laxatives if desperate (bring from Kathmandu)
Cultural Toilet Etiquette
Basic rules:
- Shoes off before entering (some tea houses require this)
- Clean up after yourself (water splash on surfaces)
- Don't waste water (scarce at altitude)
- Paper in bin, not in toilet
- Don't complain to staff (this is mountain reality)
- Leave toilet as you'd want to find it
What's normal in Nepal but surprising to Westerners:
- Bucket flush system
- Paper bin instead of flushing
- Squat toilets as default
- Water cleaning instead of paper
- No toilet paper provided
- Communal facilities
Mental Preparation for Toilet Reality
Mindset adjustments needed:
- Lower standards immediately: These are mountain toilets, not home bathrooms
- Accept discomfort: Squatting in cold with altitude dizziness is just part of it
- Night trips are inevitable: Plan for them, don't fight it
- Everyone shares this experience: That CEO in the next room is squatting over the same hole
- Temporary situation: You return to modern plumbing soon
- Embrace solutions: Pee bottle, wet wipes, hand sanitizer
- Humor helps: Toilet stories become bonding experiences with fellow trekkers
Pre-trek practice:
- Practice squatting at home (build flexibility and strength)
- Test your pee bottle system (awkward but valuable)
- Get comfortable with less privacy
- Build leg strength (wall sits help)
Toilet Emergency Scenarios
When nature calls on the trail:
- Designated toilet stops every 2-3 hours (tea house stops)
- Between stops: behind large rocks, off-trail
- Dig small hole with rock or stick
- Bury waste, pack out paper
- Privacy limited (popular trails have traffic)
- Respect prayer flags, monuments, water sources (never near these)
Sudden urgency situations:
- Tell your group immediately
- They've all been there
- Find semi-private spot quickly
- Emergency supplies in accessible pocket
The Positive Perspective
After all this brutal honesty, some positive notes:
You adapt quickly:
- By day 3, squat toilets feel normal
- Night trips become routine
- Standards adjust appropriately
- It becomes just another part of the day
Character building:
- If you can handle Himalayan toilets at -10°C at 4,000m, you can handle anything
- Genuine accomplishment
- Great stories later
- Perspective on modern conveniences
Shared experience:
- Every trekker faces this
- Toilet humor bonds groups
- Legendary stories
- "I survived Himalayan toilets" badge of honor
Toilet Timing Strategy
Shower Reality: When and Why You'll Skip Washing
Showering on a Nepal trek is nothing like your home routine. Understanding the reality helps set appropriate hygiene expectations.
Shower Availability by Altitude
Shower Reality by Elevation
| 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Below 2,500m | Almost all tea houses | Gas heater or solar | $2-3 | Actually good |
| 2,500-3,000m | Most tea houses | Solar mostly | $3-4 | Hit or miss |
| 3,000-3,500m | Many tea houses | Solar (weather dependent) | $4-5 | Disappointing often |
| 3,500-4,000m | Some tea houses | Solar (unreliable) | $5-7 | Rarely worth it |
| Above 4,000m | Very limited | Solar (rarely working) | $8-12 | Don't bother |
Types of Shower Systems
Solar Shower (Most Common):
How it works:
- Black water tank on roof absorbs sun heat
- Water flows by gravity to shower head
- Only hot after sunny afternoon (3-6 PM window)
- Cloudy day = no hot water
Reality:
- "Hot" means lukewarm at best
- Hot window is brief (everyone wants showers)
- First person gets warmest water
- Each subsequent person gets cooler water
- By person #5, it's cold again
Gas/Electric Heater Shower:
How it works:
- Water heated on-demand by gas or electricity
- More reliable than solar
- Limited to lower altitudes (fuel cost prohibitive higher up)
Reality:
- Expensive ($5-8 typically)
- Temperature fluctuates wildly during shower
- Can run out of hot water mid-shower
- Pressure weak
- Still freezing bathroom
Bucket Shower:
How it works:
- Request bucket of hot water
- Brought to bathroom
- You scoop water with cup, pour over yourself
- Traditional method
Reality:
- Actually more water-efficient than shower head
- Can control temperature (mix hot and cold)
- Quieter than shower (less wake-up of neighbors)
- Feels more like bath than shower
- Better than disappointing shower system
The Shower Experience
Typical shower room conditions:
- Temperature: Freezing (no bathroom heating ever)
- Size: Tiny (2x3 feet typical)
- Floor: Concrete, drain in floor, always wet
- Lighting: Dim single bulb (maybe working)
- Ventilation: Minimal (steam fills room)
- Privacy: Concrete walls (better than bedroom plywood)
- Shelf space: Maybe a hook for towel (maybe)
The shower process:
- Pay for shower at reception ($3-7)
- Wait for "hot water is ready" announcement
- Gather all shower items (don't want to leave and retrieve)
- Navigate to bathroom (might be outside)
- Enter freezing shower room
- Undress (immediately cold)
- Test water (probably disappointing temperature)
- Shower as fast as humanly possible
- Water turns cold (always happens mid-shower)
- Rinse with increasingly cold water
- Turn off water
- Dry in freezing room
- Dress as quickly as possible
- Exit shower room colder than when you entered
- Return to room shivering
- Take 30 minutes to warm up again
Post-shower reality:
- You're now COLDER than before shower
- Hair wet in freezing air
- Body temperature dropped significantly
- Must bundle in all warm clothes
- Shivering for next hour
- Wonder why you did this
Shower Risk at Altitude
Showering above 3,500m significantly increases altitude sickness risk. The temperature shock, body heat loss, and stress on your system can trigger symptoms. Many guides prohibit showers above 4,000m for this reason. Missing showers for a few days won't kill you; altitude sickness can.
Why You'll Skip Showers
Practical reasons:
- Too cold (risk of hypothermia)
- Too expensive (adds $4-7 per shower, daily cost adds up)
- No hot water available (solar didn't heat, system broken)
- Wrong timing (missed the hot water window)
- Long wait (everyone wants shower at same time)
- Already sick (adding cold stress to altitude stress)
Strategic reasons:
- Altitude safety (above 3,500m)
- Energy conservation (getting cold drains energy needed for trekking)
- Time management (shower + warming up = 90 minutes total)
- Everyone smells anyway (you're not unique)
Personal decision points:
- Day 1-2: Shower (still clinging to civilization)
- Day 3-5: Shower every other day (adapting)
- Day 6-8: Shower when convenient (priorities shifted)
- Day 9+ (at altitude): Skip entirely (survival mode)
Actual Showering Frequency
Optimistic pre-trek plan:
- Shower daily, or every other day at minimum
Actual reality:
- Below 3,000m: Every 2-3 days
- 3,000-3,500m: Every 3-4 days
- Above 3,500m: Maybe once, or never
Individual variation:
- Some trekkers shower daily (usually regret it)
- Most settle into every 3-4 days
- Some embrace the dirt (shower only at end)
- Cold tolerance determines frequency
Alternative Hygiene Methods
Basin wash (recommended alternative):
- Request basin of hot water in dining room
- Take to your room
- Wash face, hands, armpits, groin, feet
- Use towel for rest
- Much better than full cold shower
- Costs less ($1-2 vs. $5)
- No hypothermia risk
Wet wipe bath:
- Bring baby wipes or body wipes
- Wipe down in your room
- Focus on high-priority areas
- Quick, no water needed
- Works in freezing rooms
- Generates waste (pack out)
Dry shampoo:
- For hair (especially long hair)
- Absorbs oil, adds volume
- No water needed
- No freezing wet hair situation
- Bring from home
Priority hygiene areas:
- Feet: Crucial (wash daily, change socks)
- Armpits: High smell priority
- Groin: Hygiene and comfort
- Face and hands: Daily washing minimum
- Hair: Dry shampoo or headband (lowest priority)
Hair Washing Reality
Challenges:
- Takes lots of water
- Hair stays wet for hours in cold
- Wet hair in freezing temperatures
- No hair dryer (obvious but needs saying)
- Freezing head = body heat loss
Solutions:
- Dry shampoo entire trek
- Wash only at lower altitude (below 3,000m)
- Short haircut before trek (many do this)
- Headbands/hats hide dirty hair
- Everyone's hair is dirty (solidarity)
Long hair specific:
- Braid it (protects, manages)
- Headband/buff covers grease
- Accept non-salon appearance
- Ponytail is your friend
- Wash at end of trek (salon visit feels amazing)
Laundry Reality
Washing clothes:
- Tea houses offer laundry service (hand-wash)
- Cost: $2-5 per kg
- Takes 1-2 days to dry (longer if humid/cold)
- Might not dry at all at altitude
- Many trekkers hand-wash small items
Hand-washing strategy:
- Underwear, socks in room basin
- Hang to dry overnight (might not fully dry)
- Dry between sleeping bag layers (warmth helps)
- Sink smell develops (everyone knows what you did)
Practical approach:
- Bring enough underwear/socks for whole trek
- OR wash 2-3 sets on rotation
- Shirts: wear same one for days (pack 2-3)
- Pants: one pair entire trek (they'll survive)
- Smell acceptance required
Smell Reality
Let's address the elephant (or yak) in the room.
You will smell. Accept this:
- Everyone smells
- By day 5, you don't notice anymore
- Your smell, others' smell, all the smells
- Nobody judges (they smell too)
- Tea house dining rooms smell like trekkers
- This is normal
Smell hierarchy:
- Feet (worst—everyone agrees)
- Armpits (close second)
- Clothes (general funk)
- Hair (greasy but not offensive)
- Body (distributed mustiness)
Smell management:
- Focus on feet (wash daily, change socks)
- Deodorant (bring, use)
- Clean underwear frequently
- Air out clothes overnight
- Embrace the funk
Post-trek shower:
- Most glorious shower of your life
- Hotels in Kathmandu know (trekkers get long showers)
- Scrub repeatedly
- Hair washing (3+ times)
- Human again
Shower Strategy
Health Considerations
Shower safety rules:
- Never shower if feeling altitude symptoms
- Never shower late evening (need time to warm up before bed)
- Never shower if already sick
- Dry hair completely (wet hair in cold = illness risk)
- Warm up fully before going outside
Hygiene prioritization:
- Essential: Hand washing, face washing, teeth brushing
- Important: Feet washing, underarm washing, groin washing
- Optional: Full showers, hair washing
- Luxury: Daily bathing, salon-clean feeling
Sleeping Conditions: Cold Nights and Strange Sounds
Sleep quality dramatically affects your trek experience, yet most first-timers underestimate how different mountain sleeping is from home.
Temperature Reality
Room temperature at night:
- Rooms are NEVER heated (except rare luxury lodges)
- Inside temperature roughly equals outside temperature
- At 3,000m in winter: -5°C inside your room
- At 4,000m: -10°C to -15°C possible
- Your breath freezes (visible condensation)
- Water bottles freeze solid
What this feels like:
- Getting into sleeping bag: initially cold
- Sleeping bag slowly warms from body heat
- Nose and face exposed to freezing air
- Breathing cold air all night (throat dryness)
- Any skin outside bag gets very cold
- Morning exit from bag: willpower test
Bedding provided:
- Thin foam mattress (minimal insulation from cold floor)
- One or two heavy blankets
- Sheet (sometimes clean)
- Thin pillow
Why blankets alone won't work:
- Blankets add weight but limited warmth
- Used by hundreds of trekkers (cleanliness concern)
- Not designed for sub-zero temperatures
- Shifting during sleep exposes you to cold
Sleeping bag essential:
- Even with blankets provided, bring sleeping bag
- Temperature rating: -5°C to -15°C depending on trek
- Sleeping bag + blankets = adequate warmth
- Use blankets under you (additional mattress insulation)
Mattress Reality
Standard tea house mattress:
- Thin foam pad: 5-10cm thick
- Placed on plywood platform (your "bed")
- Compressed from heavy use (minimal cushioning)
- Sometimes lumpy, sometimes stained
- Plastic cover (crinkles with movement)
Comfort level:
- Firm (understatement)
- Hip and shoulder pressure points
- Side sleepers suffer most
- Back sleepers fare better
- Thin people feel the plywood directly
Solutions:
- Sleeping pad on top of mattress (recommended for side sleepers)
- Extra blanket under you (marginal help)
- Sleep in more clothes (padding)
- Accept discomfort (mental approach)
Noise Reality
What you'll hear through thin plywood walls:
From adjacent rooms:
- Conversations (clearly audible)
- Snoring (surprisingly loud)
- Coughing (altitude cough is epidemic)
- Farting (no privacy in plywood rooms)
- Intimate moments (awkward)
- Packing/unpacking (rustling for hours)
- Alarm clocks (everyone's alarm)
- Morning routines (every zipper, every movement)
From tea house operations:
- Kitchen activity (4 AM starts)
- Staff moving around (floorboards creak)
- Water pumping (mechanical sounds)
- Generator starting/stopping
- Other trekkers in hallways
- Dining room conversations
From outside:
- Yak bells (jingle at night)
- Dogs barking (village dogs are vocal)
- Wind (howling at altitude)
- Prayer flags (flapping constantly)
- Helicopters (medical evacuations)
- Roosters (4:30 AM, every morning)
Earplugs essential:
- Bring multiple pairs
- Foam earplugs work best
- Reduce but don't eliminate noise
- Make sleep possible in communal environment
- Also help with your own snoring (roommate will thank you)
Sleep Quality Issues
Altitude affects sleep:
- Periodic breathing: Normal at altitude, feels weird
- Breathing speeds up, then slows, then pauses
- Wake up feeling breathless
- Cycle repeats all night
- Called Cheyne-Stokes respiration
- Not dangerous, just uncomfortable
- Frequent waking: Every 1-2 hours common
- Vivid dreams: Altitude causes intense dreams/nightmares
- Restlessness: Hard to get comfortable
- Insomnia: Despite exhaustion, can't fall asleep
Physical discomfort:
- Hard mattress (pressure points ache)
- Cold (even with sleeping bag)
- Dry air (throat and nose irritation)
- Full bladder (night bathroom trips)
- Altitude headache (prevents deep sleep)
- Sore muscles (everything hurts)
Mental factors:
- Unfamiliar environment
- Worry about next day
- Altitude anxiety
- Noise disturbances
- Roommate incompatibility
Roommate Lottery
When trekking with a friend:
- Choose compatible sleep partner
- Discuss sleep habits before trek
- Establish room rules (lights out time, alarm coordination)
- Tolerance essential
When assigned random roommate:
- Possibility: great person, new friend
- Possibility: snorer who shakes walls
- Possibility: early riser with no consideration
- Possibility: sick person coughing all night
- Possibility: excessive packer/organizer (rustle all evening)
Roommate conflict management:
- Communicate politely
- Earplugs solve many problems
- Request room change if necessary
- Patience (everyone's dealing with same challenges)
Morning Wake-Up Reality
Standard wake-up time: 6:00-6:30 AM
Why so early:
- Need to leave by 8 AM for full day's trek
- Breakfast takes 30-45 minutes to prepare
- Bathroom queue in morning
- Pack and organize
- 2+ hours needed for morning routine
Morning room conditions:
- Freezing cold (coldest time of day)
- Condensation on walls/windows
- Your breath visible
- Sleeping bag is the only warm place
- Everything you need is outside sleeping bag
- Willpower required to get out
The morning exit strategy:
- Alarm goes off
- Snooze (everyone does this)
- Second alarm
- Accept fate
- Mental preparation
- Quick exit from bag
- Immediately dress in all warm layers
- Begin movement (generates heat)
- Avoid getting back in bed (tempting but wrong)
Sleep Preparation Strategies
Before bed:
- Use toilet (reduce night trips)
- Limit water intake after 7 PM (but stay hydrated before that)
- Warm water bottle in sleeping bag (warmth for hours)
- Arrange tomorrow's clothes within reach
- Headlamp positioned for night use
- Phone charging (if possible)
- Earplugs ready
Sleeping bag use:
- Fully zip closed (trap warm air)
- Hood cinched (only face exposed)
- Or hood open with beanie (preference varies)
- Clothes inside bag (tomorrow's layers stay warm)
- Water bottle inside (prevents freezing)
Clothing for sleep:
- Base layers (thermal underwear)
- Warm socks (fresh pair feels amazing)
- Beanie (huge heat loss through head)
- Fleece or down jacket (if very cold)
- Sleep in tomorrow's base layers (saves morning time)
What NOT to do:
- Sleep in all your clothes (sweat = dampness = cold)
- Breathe into sleeping bag (moisture buildup)
- Drink lots before bed (bathroom trips inevitable)
- Stay up late (you need rest)
Sleeping Bag Selection
Temperature ratings for Nepal treks:
- Spring/Fall (Oct-Nov, Mar-May): -5°C to -10°C rated bag
- Winter (Dec-Feb): -15°C to -20°C rated bag
- Summer monsoon: 0°C to -5°C rated bag
Rental vs. own:
- Rent in Kathmandu: $1-2/day, quality varies
- Bring your own: Better quality, known warmth
- Rental pros: Don't carry from home
- Rental cons: Cleanliness concerns, unknown quality
Down vs. synthetic:
- Down: Warmer for weight, compressible, expensive
- Synthetic: Cheaper, works when wet, bulkier
- Nepal recommendation: Down (stays dry in tea houses)
Altitude and Sleep
Sleep gets worse as you go higher:
- 3,000m: Slightly disrupted sleep
- 3,500m: Noticeably poor sleep
- 4,000m: Significant sleep difficulty
- 4,500m+: Minimal quality sleep
Why altitude disrupts sleep:
- Lower oxygen (body compensates with breathing changes)
- Periodic breathing cycle
- Increased urination (disturbs sleep)
- Altitude headache (prevents deep sleep)
- Anxiety about altitude sickness
- Physiological stress
Improving sleep at altitude:
- Sleep lower than your day's high point (standard acclimatization)
- Ibuprofen before bed (reduces altitude headache)
- Avoid alcohol (worsens altitude effects)
- Stay well-hydrated (but not right before bed)
- Accept poor sleep (fighting it makes it worse)
Medication options:
- Diamox (acetazolamide): Helps with periodic breathing
- Sleeping pills: Generally not recommended (respiratory depression)
- Ibuprofen: For headache
- Consult doctor: Before trek about sleep aids
Sleep Deprivation Management
Cumulative sleep debt:
- Poor sleep for 10-15 nights straight
- Exhaustion accumulates
- Affects mood, decision-making, safety
- Part of the challenge
Coping strategies:
- Nap at lunch stop (20-30 minutes helps)
- Rest days (full sleep recovery)
- Accept tired as baseline
- Post-trek recovery (you'll sleep for days)
Warning signs:
- Microsleeping while walking
- Inability to make decisions
- Excessive irritability
- Stumbling frequently
- Consider adding rest day
The Silver Linings
Positive sleep aspects:
- Exhaustion helps: Despite discomfort, you're so tired you sleep eventually
- Gets easier: Body adapts by day 5-6
- Shared suffering: Everyone's in same boat
- Descending improves everything: Sleep gets better as you go down
- Post-trek sleep: Best sleep of your life after finishing
Unexpected sleep moments:
- Afternoon sun on rest stop (warm stone, gentle doze)
- Dining room nap after lunch
- Sunset meditation (not sleep, but restorative)
Physical Challenges: What Your Body Actually Goes Through
The physical reality of trekking is both harder and easier than first-timers expect—harder in daily grind, easier in technical difficulty.
Daily Physical Stats
Typical trekking day:
- Hiking time: 5-7 hours of actual movement
- Vertical gain: 300-800m (some days more)
- Vertical loss: 0-500m (some days significantly more)
- Distance: 8-15km (seems short, but elevation matters)
- Steps: 15,000-25,000
- Calories burned: 2,500-4,000
- Heart rate: Elevated for hours (120-150 bpm)
Hardest days:
- Namche Bazaar climb (Everest trek): 600m gain in 3 hours, thin air
- Thorong La pass (Annapurna Circuit): 1,000m+ gain, 5,600m altitude
- Any steep ascent above 4,000m
- Long descent days (knees suffer more than ascents)
What Actually Hurts
Legs (universally):
- Quads: Descents are quad-killers, burning sensation
- Calves: Constant uphill flexion
- Shins: Splints possible, especially on rocky descents
- Hamstrings: Tired from constant stepping up
Feet:
- Blisters: Despite best prevention, many develop them
- Toe pain: Downhills jam toes into boot front
- Arch pain: From uneven terrain and weight
- Ankle fatigue: Constant stabilization on rocky trails
Knees:
- Descent pain: Worse than ascent pain
- Lateral pain: From side-stepping on narrow trails
- Swelling: Possible after long days
- Long-term: Trekking poles essential for knee preservation
Core and Back:
- Lower back: From backpack weight
- Upper back: From pack straps
- Shoulders: Pressure from pack
- Neck: Looking down at trail for hours
Hands and Arms:
- Swelling: "Sausage fingers" from hanging arms while walking
- Numbness: From pack strap pressure
- Cold: Extremities suffer at altitude
The Uphill Reality
Ascending technique:
- Pace: Slow and steady (pressure breathing technique)
- Rhythm: Match breathing to steps (in-in-out-out pattern common)
- Rest step: Lock knee briefly each step (saves energy)
- Breaks: Every 45-60 minutes, 5-10 minute breaks
Uphill sensations:
- Minutes 1-10: Legs warming up, breathing elevating
- Minutes 10-30: Finding rhythm, sweat starting
- Minutes 30-60: Groove or suffering (depends on pace/fitness)
- Hour 2+: Mental game, physical fatigue building
Uphill mistakes:
- Starting too fast (burning out)
- Holding breath (need continuous breathing)
- Looking up at destination (demoralizing—focus on next 10 steps)
- Comparing to others (your pace is your pace)
Altitude uphill:
- Same exertion feels much harder
- Breathing rate increases dramatically
- Rest breaks more frequent
- Slower pace necessary
- "Pole-pole" (slowly-slowly in Swahili, adopted by Nepal guides)
The Downhill Reality
Downhill Is Harder Than Uphill
Most first-timers assume uphill is the hard direction. Wrong. Long descents are brutally hard on knees, quads, and toes. The day after a big descent, you'll walk down stairs backward. Trekking poles and proper technique are essential.
Descending challenges:
- Knee impact: Every step is a controlled fall
- Quad burning: Eccentric load (muscle lengthening under load)
- Toe jamming: Toes slide forward in boots, painful
- Ankle rolling: Uneven rocks, sprained ankle risk
- Faster descent = more impact: Slowing down is wise
Downhill technique:
- Shorter steps: Control and reduce impact
- Knees slightly bent: Never lock knees
- Use poles: Plant ahead, support body weight
- Side-stepping steep sections: Reduces knee stress
- Shoe laces: Tighten before descents (prevents toe sliding)
Downhill pain:
- Quads burning (lactic acid)
- Knees aching (meniscus/cartilage stress)
- Toes throbbing (bruised toenails common)
- Shins sore (tibialis anterior overwork)
Post-downhill recovery:
- That evening: Quads tight, stairs difficult
- Next morning: Significantly sore, walking stiff
- Day 2 post-descent: Usually worse (DOMS - delayed onset muscle soreness)
- Day 3: Finally improving
Trail Surface Reality
Stone steps (everywhere):
- Irregular height (each step different)
- Uneven surface (balance required)
- Polished smooth (slippery when wet)
- Thousands upon thousands (seems endless)
- Ancient trails (Sherpa/porter highways for generations)
Rocky terrain:
- Loose rocks (ankle-twisting risk)
- Boulder fields (step carefully, test stability)
- Scree slopes (sliding descent)
- River stones (smooth, slippery)
Trail width:
- Often narrow (single file)
- Cliff edges (no railings, straight drop)
- Erosion (parts of trail missing)
- Yak traffic (you squeeze to edge while they pass)
Weather effects:
- Rain: Trails become slick, rivers form
- Ice: Morning frost makes steps treacherous
- Snow: Obscures trail, depth unknown
- Mud: Slippery, boot-sucking
Suspension Bridges
What they are:
- Steel cable suspension bridges over gorges
- Span deep river valleys
- Often very long (100+ meters)
- Multiple bridges per trek
Bridge experience:
- Swaying: They move (disconcerting but safe)
- Bounciness: Especially with yak trains crossing
- Height: Often 50-100m above river
- Width: Narrow (can't pass someone mid-bridge)
- Surface: Metal grating (you see through to river below)
Bridge rules:
- Go one direction at a time (traffic control)
- Walk, don't run
- Hold railing if needed
- Don't bounce deliberately
- Step aside for yak trains (they have priority)
Psychological challenge:
- Fear of heights (real challenge for some)
- Swaying motion (trust the structure)
- Looking down (both thrilling and terrifying)
- Yaks crossing (they're big and the bridge bounces)
Altitude Physical Effects
What altitude does to performance:
- 3,000m: 10% performance decrease
- 4,000m: 20-25% performance decrease
- 5,000m: 40-50% performance decrease
Practical meaning:
- Same effort produces less output
- Walking at 4,000m feels like running at sea level
- Breathing rate doubles or triples
- Heart rate elevated constantly
- Recovery takes longer
Physical symptoms:
- Breathlessness: Constant, especially with exertion
- Fatigue: Deeper than normal tiredness
- Reduced appetite: Body's altitude response
- Frequent urination: Acclimatization mechanism
- Headache: Mild to moderate common
- Sleep disruption: Periodic breathing
When to worry:
- Severe headache (not relieved by ibuprofen)
- Nausea/vomiting
- Ataxia (loss of coordination)
- Confusion
- Extreme fatigue (can't get out of sleeping bag)
Learn more about altitude sickness signs and prevention.
Fitness Level Reality
How fit do you need to be:
- Minimum: Able to hike 4-5 hours with breaks
- Comfortable: Regular cardio exercise, some hiking experience
- Ideal: Months of specific trek training
Fitness doesn't prevent altitude sickness:
- Ultra-marathoners can get AMS
- Sedentary people can acclimatize fine
- Fitness helps with physical effort
- Acclimatization is genetic/individual
First-timer fitness observations:
- Very fit: Struggle with altitude (go too fast)
- Moderately fit: Usually do well (sustainable pace)
- Less fit: Often surprise themselves (slow pace works)
- Unfit: Possible but very challenging
Check out the comprehensive EBC training plan for trek preparation.
Recovery and Rest
Daily recovery:
- Afternoon rest: Feet up after arriving at tea house
- Stretching: Almost nobody does it (but should)
- Massage: Self-massage sore muscles
- Food: Refuel properly
- Sleep: Quality limited, but necessary
Rest days:
- Purpose: Acclimatization and physical recovery
- Frequency: Typically every 3-4 days at altitude
- Activity: "Active rest"—short hike, explore village
- Not sitting all day: Light movement aids recovery
Signs you need a rest day:
- Persistent fatigue (not improving with sleep)
- Minor injuries accumulating
- Motivation loss
- Altitude symptoms
- Illness
Common Injuries
Blisters (most common):
- Cause: Friction, moisture, ill-fitting boots
- Prevention: Proper boots, liner socks, early tape
- Treatment: Drain, dress, protect
- Impact: Can be trek-ending if severe
Twisted ankle:
- Cause: Uneven terrain, fatigue, poor footing
- Prevention: Trekking poles, attention, good boots
- Treatment: RICE (rest, ice, compression, elevation)
- Impact: Depends on severity, possibly trek-ending
Knee pain:
- Cause: Descents, overuse, poor technique
- Prevention: Poles, slow pace, strengthening
- Treatment: Anti-inflammatories, knee brace, reduce distance
- Impact: Usually manageable with modifications
Altitude illness:
- Most serious risk
- Prevention through proper acclimatization
- See dedicated altitude sickness guide
Frequently Asked Questions
How hard is trekking in Nepal really?
Physically moderate but mentally challenging. The daily hiking (5-7 hours) is achievable for most people with basic fitness, but the cumulative effect over 10-15 days, combined with altitude, discomfort, and poor sleep, makes it harder than expected. It's not technical (no climbing skills needed), but it requires endurance and mental resilience.
Can I do it without training?
Possible but not recommended. Minimal preparation: 3 months of regular hiking with elevation gain, carrying a weighted pack. Without training, you'll suffer significantly more and risk injury. Every hour of preparation makes the trek more enjoyable.
How long should my first trek be?
For absolute beginners: 7-10 days maximum. Good options include Poon Hill, Langtang Valley, or short Annapurna Base Camp itineraries. Avoid jumping straight to Everest Base Camp or Annapurna Circuit unless you're confident in your fitness.
Do I need a guide?
Not legally required for most treks, but highly recommended for first-timers. Guides provide safety, navigation, cultural context, and problem-solving. Independent trekking is possible on established routes like EBC and ABC if you're confident and prepared. See our guide on independent vs. guided trekking.
What's the best time for a first trek?
October-November (post-monsoon) is ideal: clear skies, stable weather, moderate temperatures. March-May (pre-monsoon) is also good but slightly warmer and hazier. Avoid December-February (too cold for first-timers) and June-August (monsoon, leeches, trail closures).
See best time to trek Nepal for detailed seasonal information.
How much does a basic trek cost?
Budget: $25-35/day (accommodation, food, basics). Add guide ($25-30/day), porter ($20-25/day), permits ($10-50 depending on route), transportation, and gear. Total for 10-day trek: $800-1,500 independent, $1,200-2,500 with agency. See budget trekking Nepal.
Will I get altitude sickness?
About 50% of trekkers experience mild symptoms (headache, fatigue, appetite loss) at some point. Proper acclimatization reduces risk significantly. Severe AMS affects 10-20% if ascending too quickly. Listen to your body, ascend slowly, and descend if symptoms worsen.
Can I charge my phone every day?
Usually yes, but: costs $2-4/day (increases with altitude), electricity only available certain hours (evening typically), power outages common, slow charging, and battery drains faster in cold. Bring power bank and expect intermittent charging ability.
Is WiFi available?
Yes, at most tea houses, but: costs $3-5/day, speed is very slow (dial-up era), unreliable connection, doesn't work many places, and high altitude has limited service. Don't plan on video calls or large downloads. WhatsApp messages and basic email possible.
How cold does it get?
Depends on altitude and season. At 3,000m in peak season: nights 0-5°C. At 4,000m: -5 to -10°C. At 5,000m+: -15 to -25°C. Rooms are unheated, so inside temperature equals outside. Proper sleeping bag essential.
Do I need trekking poles?
Highly recommended. They reduce knee stress by 25%, improve balance, reduce fall risk, help with river crossings, and can be used for tent/tarp setups. Most first-timers who skip poles regret it by day 3. Rent in Kathmandu for $1-2/day or bring your own.
Can I trek alone as a woman?
Yes, it's generally safe. Nepal's trekking routes are well-traveled, and tea houses provide secure accommodation. Solo female trekkers are common. That said, a guide provides additional security and cultural navigation. See solo trekking safety guide.
What if I need to quit mid-trek?
Always an option. You can: walk back down to last road access, hire helicopter evacuation (expensive: $3,000-5,000+), or arrange vehicle pickup if roads accessible. Good travel insurance covers emergency evacuation. No shame in turnaround decisions—safety first.
How do I deal with my period on trek?
Bring all supplies from home (tampons/pads unavailable on trail), pack zip-lock bags for used products (must pack out), wet wipes for limited washing facilities, pain medication, and consider menstrual cup (reduces waste). Completely manageable with preparation.
Can vegetarians/vegans eat well?
Vegetarians: very easy, most Nepali food is vegetarian. Vegans: possible but limited variety, dal bhat (without curd), vegetables, rice, noodles. Protein sources limited (lentils mainly). Consider bringing protein powder supplement.
What about toilet paper?
Bring your own—tea houses don't provide it. Pack multiple full rolls (use more than expected). Most toilets can't flush paper (goes in bin). Some high-altitude areas require pack-out. Bring zip-lock bags. Alternative: learn water-cleaning method.
Do I need cash or can I use cards?
Cash only on trek. Bring enough Nepali rupees from Kathmandu. No ATMs on trail, no card payments. Budget $30-50/day and bring 20% extra for emergencies, unexpected costs, or delays.
How do I prevent blisters?
Proper-fitting boots (broken in before trek), liner socks under hiking socks, immediate tape at first hot spot (don't wait), keep feet dry, change socks daily, air out feet at tea houses, and address moisture management.
What's the scariest part?
Subjective, but common answers: suspension bridges (swaying, height), narrow cliff-edge trails (no railings), first altitude symptoms (fear of AMS), night bathroom trips (freezing, dark), or watching helicopter evacuations (reminds you of risks).
Will I lose weight?
Most trekkers lose 2-5kg despite eating constantly. You're burning 3,000-4,000 calories daily, walking for weeks, at altitude (suppresses appetite). Weight loss is normal. Eat as much as possible regardless of appetite.
Can I drink alcohol on trek?
Available at lower altitudes, but: alcohol worsens altitude acclimatization, dehydrates you, impairs judgment, and is expensive ($5-8/beer). Most guides recommend avoiding alcohol above 3,000m entirely. Save celebrations for Kathmandu return.
How do I carry water?
Two 1L Nalgene bottles recommended (wide-mouth, insulated sleeves). Fill at each tea house (boiled water $1-3/liter). Don't rely on water bladders (freeze at altitude, hard to monitor intake, difficult to refill). Purification tablets as backup.
What if I'm slow?
Slow is good! "Pole-pole" (slowly-slowly) is the mantra. Altitude requires slow pace. Guides adjust to your speed. Tea houses don't care when you arrive. Other trekkers are not racing you. Speed causes altitude sickness—slow prevents it.
Are there showers every day?
Availability varies (see shower section above). You won't shower daily—accept this. Every 3-4 days is realistic. Alternative: wet wipe baths, basin washes. Post-trek shower will be glorious.
How crowded are the trails?
Peak season (Oct-Nov): popular routes like EBC and ABC are busy (100+ trekkers/day at some sections). Off-season or lesser-known routes: much quieter. Tea houses fill up in peak season—book ahead or arrive early afternoon.
What's the youngest/oldest person who can trek?
Children as young as 8-10 have completed treks (with family, on easier routes, shorter days). Oldest: people in 70s and 80s do treks regularly. Age is less important than fitness, health, and acclimatization ability.
Do I need travel insurance?
Absolutely essential. Must cover: helicopter evacuation (up to $5,000+), medical emergency, altitude over 4,000m+ if going high, trip cancellation, and lost/stolen gear. Regular travel insurance often excludes trekking—get specialized policy. See travel insurance guide.
Can I rent gear in Kathmandu?
Yes, extensive rental shops in Thamel district. Available: sleeping bags ($1-2/day), down jackets ($1-2/day), trekking poles ($1-2/day), backpacks, boots (not recommended—fit issues). Quality varies. Bring or buy critical items (boots, socks, base layers).
How do I choose between EBC and ABC for first trek?
Both are challenging for first-timers. ABC is slightly shorter (7-10 days), lower maximum altitude (4,130m), more varied scenery. EBC is longer (12-14 days), higher altitude (5,364m), more famous, requires Lukla flight. See detailed EBC vs ABC comparison.
What permits do I need?
Varies by trek. Most require: TIMS card ($10-20) and area-specific permit ($10-50). Some restricted areas require special permits and guide. Get in Kathmandu before trek. Agencies handle this if using guide service. See Nepal trekking permits explained.
Can I extend my trek if I'm loving it?
Usually yes. Flexible itineraries possible on popular routes (tea houses available, permits valid). Communicate with guide if using one. Factor extra days in visa (most tourists get 30 days). Budget extra money. Weather windows for flights matter (Lukla delays).
What if someone in my group is faster/slower?
Common issue. Options: split group (different pace groups), slowest person sets pace (everyone together), or flexible meeting points (fast group waits ahead). Guides manage this regularly. Ego must be checked—your pace is your pace.
Final Thoughts: The Reality That Makes It Worth It
After all this brutal honesty about cold toilets, questionable showers, hard mattresses, dal bhat for two weeks straight, and expensive WiFi that barely works, you might wonder: why do people do this?
The answer is complex and personal, but here's the truth: the discomfort is not a flaw of the experience—it's essential to it.
If trekking in Nepal were comfortable, if tea houses had heating and soft beds, if you showered daily and ate varied Western food, if you slept well and stayed connected to the internet, the achievement would feel hollow. The entire point is that it's hard, uncomfortable, and challenging—because overcoming those challenges is what creates the transformation everyone talks about.
You'll remember the freezing 3 AM bathroom trip not with horror but with pride that you endured it. The dal bhat meals become comfort food because they fueled you to places you never imagined reaching. The thin plywood walls that provided no privacy become part of the story of how you connected with fellow trekkers from around the world.
The physical challenge teaches you that you're stronger than you thought. The mental challenge teaches you that discomfort is temporary and manageable. The cultural exposure teaches you that "comfort" is relative and modern conveniences are luxuries, not necessities.
And then there are the moments of transcendence that make all the discomfort irrelevant:
- Standing at a mountain viewpoint watching sunrise over 8,000m peaks
- Connecting with a Sherpa family over dal bhat in their tea house dining room
- Reaching your goal (basecamp, pass, summit) after days of effort
- The silence of the mountains (no cars, no sirens, just wind and yak bells)
- Looking up at stars from 4,000m with zero light pollution
- The moment you realize you haven't checked your phone in three days and don't care
- Friendships formed with strangers who became trail family
- Discovering strength you didn't know you possessed
This guide prepares you for the reality, but it can't convey the rewards. Those you have to experience yourself.
Before you go:
- Read this guide again a month before your trek
- Train specifically (see EBC training plan)
- Get proper gear (see packing list)
- Choose your route wisely (see beginner treks)
- Arrange guide/permits (see how to choose trekking agency)
- Get insurance (see travel insurance guide)
- Adjust your expectations (re-read this guide)
During your trek:
- Embrace the discomfort
- Go slowly (pole-pole)
- Eat dal bhat
- Use trekking poles
- Stay hydrated
- Listen to your body
- Be flexible with plans
- Connect with other trekkers
- Respect local culture
- Turn around if needed (mountains will be there next time)
After your trek:
- You'll shower for an hour and it will be glorious
- You'll sleep in a soft bed and appreciate it profoundly
- You'll eat fresh vegetables like they're delicacies
- You'll look at photos and not quite believe you were there
- You'll feel stronger, prouder, and different than before
- You'll start planning your next trek (this happens to everyone)
The Himalayas don't care about your comfort. They don't adjust to make things easier. They simply exist in their magnificent, indifferent grandeur. You must adjust to them—and in doing so, you discover who you really are beyond your comfortable life.
That's what you should expect on your first Nepal trek: discomfort, challenge, struggle, cold, dirt, fatigue...and transformation.
Welcome to the mountains. You're going to suffer, and you're going to love it.
Related Resources
Essential Guides for First-Time Trekkers
- Best Beginner Treks in Nepal - Choose your first trek wisely
- Tea House Trekking Explained - Deep dive into lodge-based trekking
- Independent vs Guided Trekking - Deciding if you need a guide
- How to Choose a Trekking Agency - Hiring reliable support
- Hiring Guides and Porters in Nepal - Direct hiring guide
Trek Preparation
- EBC Training Plan - 12-week preparation program (adaptable for any trek)
- Nepal Trekking Packing List - Complete gear guide
- Travel Insurance for Nepal Trekking - Essential coverage info
- Budget Trekking in Nepal - Cost-saving strategies
Popular First-Timer Routes
- Poon Hill Trek - 4-5 days, perfect beginner trek
- Langtang Valley - 7-10 days, less crowded
- Annapurna Base Camp - 7-12 days, spectacular
- Everest Base Camp - 12-14 days, bucket list
Health and Safety
- Altitude Sickness Signs and Turnaround Rules - Critical safety information
- Nepal Trekking Permits Explained - Required documentation
- Lukla Flight Guide - Dealing with mountain flights
Food and Culture
- Dal Bhat Power: Complete Guide - Understanding Nepal's trekking superfood
- Solo Trekking Safety - Going alone considerations
Timing Your Trek
- Best Time to Trek in Nepal - Seasonal overview
- Trekking Nepal in October - Peak season details
- Best Time for ABC Trek - Route-specific timing
Start preparing early, expect discomfort, embrace the challenge, and trust that the mountains will change you in ways you can't yet imagine.
Last updated: January 2026 | Based on field research and 100+ first-time trekker experiences