Gorakshep: Surviving the Highest Settlement on the Everest Base Camp Trek
Gorakshep is not a village in any conventional sense. At 5,164 meters (16,942 feet), this small cluster of stone lodges on a frozen sandy lakebed represents the highest permanent settlement on the Everest Base Camp trek and the launching point for both EBC itself and the famous sunrise hike up Kala Patthar (5,644m). It is, without exaggeration, one of the most inhospitable places on Earth where trekkers regularly sleep -- and understanding what awaits you here is essential for planning the culmination of your EBC journey.
The "village" consists of roughly five to eight lodges huddled together on a flat expanse of sandy ground that was once the bed of a glacial lake. The Khumbu Glacier grinds past just to the east, its jumbled surface of ice towers and rock debris stretching toward Everest Base Camp. To the north, the massive wall of Pumori (7,161m) and Lingtren (6,749m) rise directly above, while the dark, rocky bulk of Kala Patthar (5,644m) looms to the northwest. Nuptse's enormous south face dominates the southern sky.
The atmosphere at Gorakshep is unlike anything lower on the trail. The air contains barely 50% of the oxygen available at sea level. Temperatures plummet well below -15C at night, even during the autumn trekking season. The wind can be ferocious. Water freezes in bottles inside lodges. The lodges themselves are crowded, cold, and basic beyond what most trekkers have experienced. And yet, this harsh, extraordinary place is the reward for days of walking and acclimatizing -- because from here, you reach Everest Base Camp and stand atop Kala Patthar for what many trekkers describe as the single greatest mountain view on Earth.
5,164m (16,942ft)
Khumbu, Solukhumbu District
No permanent residents (lodge staff only)
5-8 basic lodges
Lukla (4-5 days walking)
No - last ATM in Namche Bazaar
Limited, expensive, unreliable
Very weak or none
Not available
None - nearest HRA clinic in Pheriche (2 days walk)
5 km (2-3 hours one way)
2 km (1.5-2.5 hours to summit)
Why Gorakshep Exists: The Final Staging Point
Gorakshep exists for one reason: geography. It occupies the last flat, sheltered ground before the terrain becomes entirely glacial. Everest Base Camp itself sits on the Khumbu Glacier and has no permanent structures for trekkers. Kala Patthar is a rocky peak with no flat ground. Gorakshep, with its ancient lakebed providing a level platform protected from the worst winds by surrounding ridges, is the only viable overnight location for trekkers visiting both objectives.
The settlement's history dates to the original British Everest expeditions of the 1950s, when the sandy flat was used as a base camp before the main camp was moved higher onto the glacier. The name "Gorakshep" translates roughly to "dead ravens" -- an apt description of the desolate, windswept terrain.
Today, lodge operators maintain their buildings during the trekking seasons (March-May and September-November), closing during the harsh winter and monsoon months. The staff who work here endure extreme conditions to provide the basic services that allow thousands of trekkers each year to reach their goal.
This Is Extreme Altitude
At 5,164m, you are at extreme altitude. The air pressure is roughly half of sea level. Every physical task requires more effort. Headaches, nausea, fatigue, and breathlessness are common even in well-acclimatized trekkers. Serious altitude sickness -- including HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema) and HACE (high altitude cerebral edema) -- can develop rapidly at this elevation. Know the symptoms, monitor yourself and your companions, and be prepared to descend immediately if symptoms worsen. There is no medical facility at Gorakshep.
Getting to Gorakshep
The Standard Route from Lobuche
Most trekkers reach Gorakshep from Lobuche (4,940m), following the EBC trail north along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. The walk takes 3-4 hours and gains approximately 220 meters of elevation -- modest on paper but demanding at this altitude.
Trail description:
- Depart Lobuche on rocky moraine trail
- Pass memorial chorten area (if not visited on approach to Lobuche)
- Traverse along the glacier's western edge
- Cross rocky, uneven terrain with occasional scrambling
- Final approach across the flat, sandy lakebed to Gorakshep
What makes it difficult:
- The elevation. Every step requires conscious effort.
- Uneven, rocky terrain requiring concentration
- Cold temperatures, especially on early morning departures
- Wind exposure along the moraine ridge
- The psychological weight of knowing this is your highest sleep
Timing Your Arrival
Arrive early. This is perhaps the single most important piece of practical advice for Gorakshep. During peak season, lodges fill quickly, and late arrivals may find no beds available. Aim to reach Gorakshep by noon at the latest. This gives you time to secure a bed, have lunch, rest briefly, and then hike to EBC in the afternoon (the standard plan) or prepare for an early-morning Kala Patthar summit.
Many trekkers depart Lobuche at 7:00-8:00 AM and reach Gorakshep by 10:00-11:00 AM. After lunch and rest, they hike to EBC (2-3 hours each way), returning to Gorakshep by evening. The next morning, they rise at 4:00-4:30 AM for the Kala Patthar sunrise hike, then descend all the way to Pheriche or Dingboche.
Pro Tip
Depart Lobuche as early as possible -- ideally by 7:00 AM. Arriving at Gorakshep by 10:00-11:00 AM gives you the best chance of securing a bed and allows a comfortable afternoon hike to EBC. Late arrivals (after 2:00 PM) during peak season may find all beds taken and face the grim prospect of sleeping on the dining room floor.
Accommodation: Managing Expectations
What to Expect (and What Not to Expect)
Accommodation at Gorakshep is the most basic on the entire EBC trek. Understanding this in advance helps manage expectations and reduces frustration.
What you will get:
- A bed with a thin mattress in a shared room
- Blankets (thin and often inadequate)
- A dining room with a heating stove (sometimes)
- Basic food and hot drinks
- A roof over your head
What you will not get:
- Hot showers (none available at any lodge)
- Warm rooms (temperatures inside regularly drop below -10C at night)
- Privacy (rooms accommodate 4-8 people during peak season)
- Quiet (coughing, rustling, and headlamp activity throughout the night)
- Reliable electricity (generators run limited hours)
- Good WiFi or phone signal
- Variety of food options
| Feature | All Gorakshep Lodges | |---------|---------------------| | Price per night | $8-15 | | Room type | Dormitory-style, 2-8 beds per room | | Blankets | Provided (bring sleeping bag rated to -20C) | | Hot shower | Not available | | Toilet | Basic, outdoor or unheated indoor | | Charging | Paid ($5-7/device), limited availability | | WiFi | Extremely limited if available ($7-10) | | Heating | Yak dung stove in dining hall, limited hours | | Water | Must be purified, may freeze overnight |
Lodge Options
The lodges at Gorakshep are roughly equivalent in quality. None stands out as significantly better or worse than the others. The primary differentiator is availability -- whichever lodge has a bed is the one you should take.
Notable lodges include:
- Buddha Lodge
- Snowland Inn
- Hotel Gorakshep
- Himalayan Lodge
Peak Season Reality
During October -- the peak trekking month -- Gorakshep lodges reach capacity daily. The situation can become genuinely difficult:
- Rooms designed for 2 may house 4-6 trekkers
- Dining room floors become overflow sleeping areas
- Meals take longer as kitchens are overwhelmed
- Toilet facilities are strained beyond their capacity
- Tempers can fray (altitude, cold, and crowding are a challenging combination)
Guided Groups Have Priority
Trekking agencies pre-book beds at Gorakshep lodges, meaning independent trekkers are competing for remaining spots. If you are trekking independently during peak season, consider hiring a guide or porter who has lodge connections, or adjust your itinerary to arrive on less popular days (mid-week rather than weekends).
Food at 5,164m
Menu Reality
Food options at Gorakshep are the most limited on the EBC trek. Kitchens operate at extreme altitude where water boils at around 83C (too low for efficient cooking), staff are working in harsh conditions, and supply logistics are challenging.
Typical menu items and prices:
- Dal bhat: $10-14
- Fried rice/noodles: $8-12
- Garlic soup: $5-7
- Sherpa stew: $8-12
- Pancakes: $6-8
- Tea/coffee: $3-5
- Hot chocolate: $4-5
- Instant noodle soup: $5-7
- Chapati: $4-6
Important food notes:
- Menus are short. Some items may be unavailable.
- Cooking times are longer due to low boiling point of water.
- Food quality is basic -- this is survival fuel, not cuisine.
- Portions may be smaller than at lower elevations.
- Prices are the highest on the trek (everything arrives by yak).
Eating Strategy
Your body is burning enormous calories at this altitude, but your appetite is likely suppressed. Force yourself to eat.
Recommended approach:
- Order dal bhat for maximum calories per rupee
- Drink hot fluids constantly (garlic soup, tea, hot water)
- Avoid heavy, greasy foods that are hard to digest at altitude
- Eat as soon as you arrive -- don't wait until you're hungry
- Bring your own snacks (chocolate, nuts, energy bars) as supplements
Hydration Is Critical
At 5,164m, you lose moisture rapidly through breathing alone. The air is extremely dry, and you are breathing faster and deeper than at sea level. Dehydration is one of the primary triggers for altitude sickness. Drink at least 3-4 liters of fluid per day. Hot water, tea, and soup all count. Avoid alcohol entirely. If your urine is dark yellow, you are dehydrated.
Kala Patthar Sunrise: The Ultimate EBC Reward
The pre-dawn climb of Kala Patthar (5,644m) is, for many trekkers, the emotional and visual climax of the entire Everest Base Camp trek. From its rocky summit, you get the closest and most dramatic head-on view of Mount Everest available to trekkers, with the entire Khumbu icefall and the peaks of Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, and Changtse arrayed around you in a 360-degree panorama of staggering beauty.
The Climb
Details:
- Elevation gain: 480m from Gorakshep
- Duration: 1.5-2.5 hours up, 1-1.5 hours down
- Departure time: 4:00-4:30 AM for sunrise
- Difficulty: Very strenuous at this altitude
- Trail: Well-defined path with cairns, steep near top
What to expect:
- Pre-dawn darkness (headlamp essential)
- Extreme cold (-15 to -25C with wind chill)
- Thin air making every step laborious
- Steep, rocky terrain requiring hands in places
- Growing light revealing the surrounding peaks
- Sunrise hitting Everest's summit in golden light
Essential Gear for Kala Patthar
- Headlamp with fresh batteries (and backup batteries in your pocket -- cold kills batteries)
- Down jacket (your warmest layer)
- Insulated gloves (liner gloves are insufficient)
- Warm hat and balaclava (face protection essential)
- Insulated pants or thermal layers under trekking pants
- Warm socks and well-insulated boots
- Sunglasses (for the descent in bright sunlight on snow)
- Camera (keep batteries warm in your pocket until needed)
- Water (carry in an insulated sleeve to prevent freezing)
- Snacks (chocolate, energy bar)
Photography Tips
Best positions: The summit offers 360-degree views, but the classic Everest shot is from the true summit or slightly west. Arrive early enough to set up before the light hits.
Timing: The sun typically reaches Everest's summit 15-20 minutes before it hits Kala Patthar. This creates the dramatic golden-lit peak against a still-dark foreground that defines the iconic Kala Patthar photograph.
Technical: Tripods are difficult to use in the wind. High ISO settings compensate for low pre-dawn light. Bracket exposures for the extreme contrast range.
Pro Tip
Do not stop at the first cairn or the second cairn. The true summit of Kala Patthar is marked by a cluster of prayer flags at the highest point. Many exhausted trekkers stop short, believing they have reached the top, and miss the best views. Keep climbing until you can climb no higher. The difference in the Everest view between the false summits and the true summit is significant.
Everest Base Camp: The Day Hike
Logistics
Most trekkers hike to Everest Base Camp on the afternoon of their arrival day at Gorakshep, returning before dinner. The alternative is to hike to EBC after the Kala Patthar sunrise, but this requires extraordinary stamina after an exhausting pre-dawn climb.
Details:
- Distance: 5 km one way from Gorakshep
- Duration: 2-3 hours each way
- Elevation change: 200m gain (undulating glacier terrain)
- Trail: Rocky moraine and glacier edge, cairn-marked
- Difficulty: Moderate (terrain) to strenuous (altitude)
What You See at EBC
Everest Base Camp (5,364m) is not a single point but a sprawling area on the Khumbu Glacier where expedition teams establish camps during the spring climbing season (April-May). What you experience depends on when you visit:
During climbing season (April-May):
- Colorful tents of expedition teams
- Climbers and Sherpas preparing for summit attempts
- Puja altars with prayer flags
- Equipment and supply dumps
- Bustling, purpose-driven atmosphere
Outside climbing season (October-November):
- Empty rocky glacier terrain
- Stone markers and prayer flags
- No tents or people
- Raw, desolate beauty
- The EBC signpost for photos
Regardless of season:
- Views of the Khumbu Icefall's lower reaches
- Massive ice seracs and crevasses
- The immense scale of the surrounding peaks
- A profound sense of accomplishment
The Trail to EBC
The trail follows the western edge of the Khumbu Glacier, picking its way through rocky moraine. It is not a manicured path -- expect scrambling over boulders, crossing sandy patches, and navigating around ice features. Cairns and occasional trail markers guide the way, but visibility can deteriorate in afternoon clouds.
The terrain is deceptive. What appears flat from Gorakshep is actually a series of rises and dips as you traverse the glacial moraine. The constant up-and-down at 5,200-5,364m is exhausting, and many trekkers underestimate the time and energy required.
Pro Tip
Carry more water and snacks than you think you need for the EBC hike. The round trip takes 4-6 hours, and at this altitude, dehydration and energy depletion happen rapidly. There are no tea houses or water sources between Gorakshep and EBC. Fill your bottles with treated water at the lodge before departing.
Medical Considerations at 5,164m
The Reality of Extreme Altitude
At 5,164m, every human body is under stress. Even perfectly acclimatized trekkers experience reduced physical capacity, altered sleep, and some degree of discomfort. The line between normal altitude effects and dangerous altitude sickness narrows significantly at this elevation.
Normal Symptoms at 5,164m
These are expected and generally not cause for alarm:
- Mild headache (responds to ibuprofen and hydration)
- Reduced appetite
- Fatigue beyond normal tiredness
- Difficulty sleeping (Cheyne-Stokes breathing common)
- Frequent urination (a sign of good hydration)
- Mild breathlessness with exertion
- Cold extremities
Dangerous Symptoms (Descend Immediately)
These require immediate descent -- do not wait until morning:
- Severe headache unresponsive to medication
- Persistent vomiting
- Ataxia (inability to walk a straight line heel-to-toe)
- Confusion, disorientation, or irrational behavior
- Extreme fatigue (inability to stand or walk)
- Crackling sounds when breathing (HAPE)
- Blue lips or fingernails (cyanosis)
- Coughing up pink or frothy sputum (HAPE)
Emergency Procedures
There is no medical facility at Gorakshep. The nearest HRA clinic is in Pheriche, a full day's walk (or more) away. In medical emergencies:
- Descend immediately. Even 300-500m of descent can be lifesaving.
- Administer oxygen if available (some lodges carry emergency supplies).
- Use the Gamow bag if available and descent is impossible.
- Arrange helicopter evacuation through your guide, agency, or lodge staff.
- Contact insurance company emergency line.
Helicopter evacuation from Gorakshep is possible in good weather but may be delayed by hours or days in poor conditions. This is why prevention through proper acclimatization is paramount.
For comprehensive altitude safety information, read our Altitude Sickness Prevention and Treatment Guide.
No Medical Help at Gorakshep
There is no doctor, no clinic, no pharmacy, and no medical facility of any kind at Gorakshep. If you or a companion develops serious altitude sickness, you must descend. Period. Helicopter evacuation is weather-dependent and may not be available for hours or days. Your only reliable option is to walk down. This is why proper acclimatization at Namche Bazaar and Dingboche is so critically important.
Sleeping at 5,164m: A Survival Guide
Sleep at Gorakshep is, for most trekkers, the worst night of the entire trek. Understanding why -- and preparing accordingly -- makes it marginally more bearable.
Why Sleep Is Terrible at 5,164m
Cheyne-Stokes respiration: Your breathing pattern becomes irregular -- deep breaths followed by shallow breaths or complete pauses of 5-15 seconds. This is a normal altitude response but can be alarming, especially when you (or your roommate) appear to stop breathing temporarily.
Cold: Inside temperatures commonly drop to -10 to -15C. Your sleeping bag is your primary defense. A bag rated to -20C is not overkill.
Noise: Coughing is ubiquitous. Every trekker at this altitude has a dry, persistent "Khumbu cough" caused by cold, dry air irritating the throat and bronchial passages. Add rustling sleeping bags, headlamp clicks, and bathroom trips, and silence is nonexistent.
Anxiety: Many trekkers lie awake worrying about altitude sickness, the Kala Patthar climb, or their breathing pattern. This anxiety further disrupts sleep.
Sleep Optimization Tips
- Sleeping bag: Use your warmest bag. Wear a hat and warm socks inside the bag.
- Hydration: Drink warm fluids before bed, but not so much that you need multiple bathroom trips in the freezing dark.
- Elevated head: Prop up the head of your mattress with your daypack. Sleeping slightly elevated eases breathing.
- Earplugs: Essential for blocking the symphony of coughing.
- Accept it: You will sleep poorly. Everyone does. One bad night will not ruin your trek or your Kala Patthar experience.
- Avoid sleeping pills: They suppress respiration, which is dangerous at extreme altitude. If your doctor has prescribed Diamox, continue taking it.
- Hot water bottle: Fill a Nalgene bottle with hot water and put it in your sleeping bag. This provides warmth for hours and doubles as drinking water by morning.
Pro Tip
Fill a Nalgene bottle with boiling water before bed and place it inside your sleeping bag near your core. This serves triple duty: it keeps you warm for hours, prevents your drinking water from freezing overnight, and gives you liquid to drink when you wake for the Kala Patthar climb at 4:00 AM. This simple trick dramatically improves your night at Gorakshep.
Weather and Conditions at 5,164m
Temperature Ranges
| Season | Daytime Temp | Nighttime Temp | Conditions | |--------|-------------|----------------|------------| | Autumn (Oct-Nov) | -5 to 5C | -15 to -10C | Clear, cold, moderate wind | | Spring (Mar-May) | -3 to 8C | -12 to -5C | Variable, some cloud, snow possible | | Winter (Dec-Feb) | -15 to -5C | -25 to -15C | Extremely cold, clear, virtually no trekkers | | Monsoon (Jun-Aug) | -2 to 5C | -8 to -3C | Snow, cloud, not recommended |
Wind
Gorakshep is relatively sheltered by surrounding ridges, but the Kala Patthar summit and the trail to EBC are fully exposed. Wind chill can push effective temperatures 10-15C below the ambient temperature.
Sunlight
Due to the surrounding peaks, direct sunlight reaches Gorakshep later in the morning and leaves earlier in the afternoon than lower villages. The period of direct warmth is short -- typically 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM in autumn. Lodge temperatures begin dropping rapidly once the sun disappears behind the ridges.
Cost at Gorakshep
Prices at Gorakshep are the highest on the EBC trek. Everything is carried by yak from lower elevations.
| Item | Typical Cost (NPR) | Typical Cost (USD) | |------|-------------------|--------------------| | Lodge bed (per night) | 800-2,000 | $6-15 | | Dal bhat | 1,200-1,800 | $10-14 | | Fried rice/noodles | 1,000-1,500 | $8-12 | | Garlic soup | 600-800 | $5-6 | | Tea/coffee | 400-600 | $3-5 | | Hot water (thermos) | 400-600 | $3-5 | | Phone charging | 600-800 | $5-6 | | WiFi | 800-1,200 | $6-10 |
Budget for one night: Plan approximately $30-50 per person for accommodation, meals, and minimal services.
Spending Priorities at Gorakshep
At Gorakshep, prioritize spending on food and hot drinks rather than WiFi and charging. Your body needs calories and hydration more than your phone needs battery. A bowl of garlic soup and a pot of tea will do more for your Kala Patthar success than any Instagram update. Save the social media for Namche Bazaar on the way down.
The Standard Gorakshep Schedule
Most trekkers follow this schedule, refined over decades of EBC treks:
Day 1: Arrival and EBC
- 7:00-8:00 AM: Depart Lobuche
- 10:00-11:00 AM: Arrive Gorakshep, secure bed, drop bags
- 11:00 AM-12:00 PM: Lunch and rest
- 12:00-1:00 PM: Depart for Everest Base Camp
- 2:30-3:30 PM: Reach EBC, photos, celebration
- 3:30-5:30 PM: Return to Gorakshep
- 6:00 PM: Dinner
- 7:00-7:30 PM: Prepare gear for Kala Patthar, sleep
Day 2: Kala Patthar and Descent
- 4:00-4:30 AM: Wake up, dress in full cold-weather gear
- 4:30-5:00 AM: Depart for Kala Patthar (headlamp)
- 5:30-6:30 AM: Reach summit area
- 6:00-6:30 AM: Sunrise on Everest (varies by season)
- 6:30-7:30 AM: Photography, celebration, begin descent
- 7:30-8:30 AM: Return to Gorakshep
- 8:30-9:30 AM: Breakfast, pack
- 9:30-10:00 AM: Depart Gorakshep, descend to Pheriche or Dingboche
Alternative: Kala Patthar First
Some trekkers reverse the order, doing Kala Patthar on the afternoon of arrival (for sunset rather than sunrise) and EBC the next morning before descending. This is less common but avoids the brutal pre-dawn wake-up.
Trade-off: Afternoon light on Everest from Kala Patthar is beautiful but different from the iconic sunrise shot. Afternoon clouds are more likely to obscure the summit. Most photographers and guides recommend the sunrise option.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. How high is Gorakshep exactly?
Gorakshep sits at 5,164 meters (16,942 feet). This makes it higher than Mont Blanc, Kilimanjaro's final camp, and virtually every mountain in Europe, North America, or Africa.
2. Can I skip Gorakshep and day-hike to EBC and Kala Patthar from Lobuche?
Technically possible for extremely fit and well-acclimatized trekkers, but not recommended. The round trip from Lobuche to EBC via Kala Patthar is 20+ km at extreme altitude. Most trekkers need the overnight at Gorakshep to visit both destinations without dangerous exhaustion.
3. Are there hot showers at Gorakshep?
No. There are no hot showers at any lodge. Water freezes readily at this altitude. Accept that you will not shower between Lobuche (limited hot water) and your descent to lower elevations.
4. How cold does it get inside the lodges?
Inside temperatures regularly drop to -10 to -15C at night during autumn season. There is no effective room heating. Your sleeping bag is your survival system.
5. What sleeping bag rating do I need?
A sleeping bag rated to -20C (comfort rating, not extreme rating) is recommended. Bags rated to only -10C will leave you cold and miserable. If renting in Kathmandu, get the warmest bag available.
6. Is there phone signal at Gorakshep?
Very limited to none. Ncell occasionally picks up a faint signal but is unreliable. WiFi exists at some lodges but is expensive, slow, and may not function. Do not expect to communicate from Gorakshep.
7. What if all lodges are full?
This happens during peak October season. If no beds are available, you may sleep on the dining room floor (bring your sleeping mat). Another option is to arrive earlier or visit on less popular days. Having a guide with lodge connections significantly reduces this risk.
8. How long does the Kala Patthar climb take?
From Gorakshep to the summit of Kala Patthar (5,644m) takes 1.5-2.5 hours for most trekkers. The descent takes 1-1.5 hours. Total round trip: 3-4 hours.
9. Do I have to do the Kala Patthar sunrise hike?
No, but you should. Kala Patthar offers the best view of Everest available to trekkers -- far superior to the view from EBC itself (where Everest is hidden behind the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge). The sunrise light on Everest is extraordinary. This is the view you came for.
10. Is it safe to sleep at 5,164m?
Yes, if you have properly acclimatized at Namche Bazaar and Dingboche. One night at 5,164m is manageable for well-acclimatized trekkers. Sleep quality will be poor, but the altitude is survivable. If you experience severe altitude symptoms, descend immediately rather than sleeping.
11. What food should I eat at Gorakshep?
High-carbohydrate, easily digestible food. Dal bhat is ideal. Garlic soup provides warmth and hydration. Avoid heavy, greasy foods. Drink hot fluids constantly. Force yourself to eat even without appetite.
12. How do I get down from Gorakshep?
Most trekkers descend the same way they came up: south along the moraine to Lobuche, then to Pheriche or Dingboche. The descent from Gorakshep to Pheriche (4,240m) can be done in one long day (6-8 hours), losing nearly 1,000 meters of elevation. Many trekkers feel dramatically better as they descend into thicker air.
Related Guides
Final thoughts: Gorakshep is the most uncomfortable, most crowded, coldest, and most expensive overnight of the Everest Base Camp trek. It is also the most unforgettable. You will remember the frozen stars above Pumori at midnight, the burning lungs on the Kala Patthar climb, the moment sunrise painted Everest gold against a sapphire sky, and the profound silence of standing at the edge of the world's greatest mountain range. The discomfort is temporary. The experience is permanent. Endure the night. Earn the sunrise. It is worth every frozen, sleepless, breathless moment.