The Kathmandu Valley was once home to three rival Malla kingdoms, each centered on a magnificent royal plaza known as a Durbar Square. Today, all three -- Kathmandu, Patan (Lalitpur), and Bhaktapur -- hold UNESCO World Heritage status and together form one of the densest concentrations of ancient architecture on the planet. For trekkers spending a day or two in the valley before or after a Himalayan adventure, these squares offer a profound cultural counterpoint to the mountain experience and a window into the Newari civilization that shaped Nepal's identity.
This guide dives deep into each Durbar Square individually, covering what to see, how to get there, entrance fees, architecture highlights, post-earthquake restoration progress, and practical logistics. Unlike our broader Kathmandu sightseeing overview, this article is specifically about the three ancient cities and their royal plazas, giving you enough detail to explore them with the depth they deserve.
All 3 squares are World Heritage Sites (since 1979)
NPR 3,800 for all three squares
Full day for all three; half-day for one
Early morning (6-9 AM) for light and calm
1,300-1,400m across all three cities
Newari pagoda, shikhara, and courtyard
Allowed outdoors; no flash inside museums
Major restoration ongoing; most sites open
Understanding the Three Durbar Squares
The word "Durbar" means royal court or palace in Nepali. Each of the three Malla kingdoms -- Kathmandu (Kantipur), Patan (Lalitpur, meaning "City of Beauty"), and Bhaktapur (Bhadgaon, meaning "City of Devotees") -- built competing palaces and temples in an architectural arms race that lasted from the 15th to 18th centuries. The result is a trio of plazas where Hindu and Buddhist iconography merge in elaborate multi-tiered pagoda temples, stone-carved courtyards, and intricately woodcarved windows and doorways.
The 2015 Gorkha earthquake severely damaged all three squares. Many structures collapsed entirely, while others lost upper tiers or suffered cracking. More than a decade later, restoration work continues, supported by international organizations and the Nepali government. The squares are very much alive and visitable -- scaffolding and construction barriers are part of the current experience, but they coexist with active temples, daily worship, local markets, and centuries-old cultural rituals.
Why Trekkers Should Visit
If you have spent days walking past Buddhist monasteries, Hindu shrines, prayer flags, and mani walls on the trail, the Durbar Squares provide context for everything you encountered in the mountains. The pagoda-style architecture you admired at Tengboche Monastery or Muktinath Temple originated in these valleys. Walking through these plazas connects your trekking experience to the broader Nepali cultural story.
For pre-trek visitors, exploring the squares is excellent gentle exercise at moderate altitude (about 1,400m), helping with jet lag recovery and acclimatization. For post-trek visitors, the flat terrain is kind to tired knees, and the cultural richness provides a satisfying bookend to a mountain adventure.
Multi-Day Ticket Strategy
Kathmandu Durbar Square
Overview
Kathmandu Durbar Square sits at the heart of old Kathmandu, roughly a 20-minute walk south of Thamel. This was the political and spiritual center of the Kathmandu Malla kingdom and later the seat of the unified Shah dynasty. The square is actually a series of interconnected plazas and courtyards spread across several hundred meters, anchored by the massive Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace complex.
The 2015 earthquake hit Kathmandu Durbar Square hard. The iconic Kasthamandap -- the ancient wooden pavilion from which Kathmandu takes its name -- collapsed entirely but has been rebuilt using traditional methods. Several temples lost their upper tiers, and scaffolding remains on multiple structures. However, the core experience of walking through centuries of layered architecture remains compelling.
What to See
Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex: The sprawling royal palace covers much of the square's eastern edge. Named after the stone Hanuman statue at its entrance (covered in a red cloth and vermilion paste), the palace includes the Nasal Chowk courtyard where coronations took place, the nine-storey Basantapur Tower with valley views, and the Tribhuvan Museum documenting Nepal's modern royal history.
Kumari Ghar (House of the Living Goddess): This ornately carved 18th-century building is the residence of the Royal Kumari, a pre-pubescent girl selected as the living incarnation of the goddess Taleju. Visitors can enter the courtyard and, with patience and luck, may glimpse the Kumari when she appears briefly at the central window. Photography of the Kumari is strictly forbidden.
Taleju Temple: The tallest structure in the square, this triple-roofed temple is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Non-Hindus cannot enter, but its soaring profile dominates the skyline and is best appreciated from the steps of the surrounding temples.
Kasthamandap: Recently reconstructed after its 2015 collapse, this ancient shelter is traditionally considered the oldest wooden building in the Kathmandu Valley. Legend holds it was built from the wood of a single sal tree. Its reconstruction using traditional joinery methods (no nails) is a triumph of heritage conservation.
Kal Bhairav: A massive stone relief of the fearsome Bhairav, an aspect of Shiva. Traditionally, it was believed that anyone who told a lie in front of this statue would vomit blood and die -- a useful belief for the adjacent royal court of justice.
Practical Information
| Detail | Information | |--------|------------| | Entrance Fee | NPR 1,000 (foreigners) | | Ticket Extension | Free at Site Office with passport | | Opening Hours | Dawn to dusk (fee collection roughly 7 AM - 7 PM) | | Time Needed | 1.5-2.5 hours | | Distance from Thamel | 1.5 km south (20 min walk, 10 min taxi) | | Guided Tours | Available at entrance, NPR 1,000-2,000 |
Walk from Thamel
Patan Durbar Square (Lalitpur)
Overview
Many seasoned travelers and architecture enthusiasts consider Patan Durbar Square the most beautiful of the three. Located in Lalitpur, just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu, Patan is famous for its unmatched concentration of Newari craftsmanship, its world-class museum, and the living artisan traditions in the surrounding neighborhoods. The square is more compact than Kathmandu's, making it easier to absorb, and the Patan Museum alone justifies the visit.
Patan suffered less earthquake damage than Kathmandu Durbar Square, though several temples were destroyed or significantly damaged. The Krishna Mandir (Krishna Temple), with its unique stone shikhara-style architecture imported from India, survived largely intact and remains the square's signature monument.
What to See
Patan Museum: Housed in the northern wing of the old Royal Palace, the Patan Museum is widely regarded as the finest museum in Nepal and one of the best in South Asia. Its collection of Hindu and Buddhist bronzes, stone sculptures, ritual objects, and architectural elements is displayed with superb lighting and contextual information. The museum also explains the traditional metalworking techniques still practiced in Patan's workshops. Allow 45-90 minutes for a thorough visit.
Krishna Mandir (Krishna Temple): Built in 1637, this three-storey stone temple is the only pure shikhara-style temple in Nepal, modeled on North Indian temple architecture. The friezes along its first and second floors depict scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana in exquisite detail.
Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal): A short walk north of the square, this 12th-century Buddhist monastery features a stunning gilded facade and a small courtyard filled with prayer wheels, statues, and a tranquil atmosphere. The caretakers rotate from the surrounding Newari Buddhist community on a monthly basis, maintaining a tradition that has continued for centuries.
Mahabouddha Temple: Hidden in a narrow courtyard several blocks south of the square, this remarkable terracotta temple is covered entirely in small plaques, each depicting the Buddha. Modeled on the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya, India, it was damaged in 2015 and reconstructed with leftover bricks forming a smaller shrine alongside the original.
Artisan Workshops: The streets surrounding Patan Durbar Square are alive with traditional metalworking, woodcarving, and thangka painting. Patan has been the center of Newari metalcraft for over a thousand years, and you can watch artisans using the lost-wax casting technique to create bronze statues destined for temples throughout the Himalayan world.
Practical Information
| Detail | Information | |--------|------------| | Entrance Fee | NPR 1,000 (foreigners, includes museum) | | Museum Hours | 10:30 AM - 5:00 PM (closed Tuesdays) | | Time Needed | 2-3 hours (with museum and surroundings) | | Distance from Thamel | 6 km south (20-25 min taxi) | | Combined Visit | Pairs well with lunch at rooftop restaurant |
Patan Lunch Strategy
Museum Closed Tuesdays
Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Overview
Bhaktapur is the most preserved of the three ancient cities, partly because it charges an entry fee for the entire old town (not just the square), which directly funds conservation. Located 14 km east of Kathmandu, Bhaktapur feels like stepping back in time. The pace is slower, the streets are cleaner, the tourist density is lower, and the traditional Newari way of life is more visibly intact than in the other two cities.
The 2015 earthquake destroyed several of Bhaktapur's landmark structures, including the Vatsala Temple and parts of the 55 Window Palace. However, the Nyatapola Temple -- Nepal's tallest pagoda -- survived with minimal damage, and the overall atmosphere of the old town remains extraordinary. The pottery-making districts, ancient water spouts, and local festivals give Bhaktapur a living authenticity that many visitors find more moving than either Kathmandu or Patan.
What to See
Nyatapola Temple: Standing five storeys tall on a five-tier plinth, the Nyatapola is Nepal's tallest pagoda temple and one of the finest examples of Newari pagoda architecture in existence. Built in 1702, it survived the 2015 earthquake with only minor damage, a testament to its engineering. The stone stairway is flanked by pairs of guardians -- wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins, and goddesses -- each said to be ten times stronger than the pair below.
55 Window Palace: The Royal Palace of Bhaktapur features the famous 55 Window Balcony, a masterpiece of Newari woodcarving. The Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka) at the palace entrance is considered the most important single piece of art in the Kathmandu Valley. Through the gate lies the Taleju Chowk courtyard, which is unfortunately off-limits to non-Hindus.
Pottery Square (Potters' Square): A short walk from the main square, this open area is where Bhaktapur's traditional potters shape, dry, and fire their wares using techniques unchanged for centuries. The rows of clay pots drying in the sun, the working potters, and the ancient buildings surrounding the space create one of the most photographed scenes in Nepal.
Dattatreya Square: The eastern end of Bhaktapur's old town features the Dattatreya Temple, said to be carved from a single tree trunk, the Pujari Math (Peacock Window building) with the finest woodcarving in the valley, and the Woodcarving Museum. This area sees fewer tourists than the main square and offers a quieter exploration experience.
Bhaktapur National Art Gallery: Located in the old Royal Palace, this gallery houses an extensive collection of Hindu and Buddhist paintings, manuscripts, and thangkas spanning several centuries.
Taumadhi Square: The open plaza in front of the Nyatapola Temple, this is Bhaktapur's social heart. The steps of the temple are popular gathering spots, and the surrounding cafes provide comfortable vantage points.
Practical Information
| Detail | Information | |--------|------------| | Entrance Fee | NPR 1,800 (foreigners, covers all of old town) | | Ticket Extension | Can be extended for multiple days with passport | | Opening Hours | 24 hours (fee collection roughly 6 AM - 8 PM) | | Time Needed | 3-5 hours (half-day recommended) | | Distance from Thamel | 14 km east (40-60 min taxi depending on traffic) | | Local Specialty | Juju Dhau (King of Yogurt), must-try |
Bhaktapur Early Morning
Bhaktapur Requires a Half-Day Commitment
Comparing the Three Squares
Understanding the distinct character of each square helps you decide how to allocate your time.
| feature | kathmandu | patan | bhaktapur |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atmosphere | Busy, chaotic, urban | Artistic, cultural, moderate pace | Preserved, tranquil, time-capsule |
| Best For | Quick visit, royal history | Art, museums, craftsmanship | Full immersion, photography |
| Entrance Fee | NPR 1,000 | NPR 1,000 (incl. museum) | NPR 1,800 (entire old town) |
| Time Needed | 1.5-2.5 hours | 2-3 hours | 3-5 hours |
| From Thamel | 1.5 km (walk) | 6 km (taxi) | 14 km (taxi) |
| Quake Damage | Heavy (major rebuilding) | Moderate (museum intact) | Moderate (Nyatapola safe) |
| Top Highlight | Kumari Ghar, Kasthamandap | Museum, Krishna Mandir | Nyatapola, Pottery Square |
| Crowd Level | High (mixed tourists/locals) | Moderate | Lower (fee keeps crowds down) |
If You Only Have Time for One
Choose Bhaktapur if you want the most complete, immersive experience and have a half-day available. The whole-town entry fee means you experience an entire living medieval city, not just a plaza.
Choose Patan if you love museums and art. The Patan Museum alone is worth the trip, and the artisan neighborhoods add a hands-on dimension.
Choose Kathmandu Durbar Square if your time is extremely limited. Its proximity to Thamel means you can walk there in 20 minutes and see the highlights in 90 minutes.
If You Have a Full Day
The most rewarding full-day itinerary visits two squares: Patan in the morning, Bhaktapur in the afternoon, or vice versa. This gives you the valley's best museum and its best-preserved old town in a single day without the fatigue of trying to cover all three.
Alternatively, combine Kathmandu Durbar Square with Patan in a morning-to-early-afternoon loop, which is achievable since they are relatively close together.
Combine with Boudhanath and Pashupatinath
Post-Earthquake Restoration Progress
The 2015 Gorkha earthquake (magnitude 7.8) was devastating for the Kathmandu Valley's heritage. Across the three Durbar Squares, hundreds of structures were damaged and dozens collapsed entirely. The restoration effort has been one of the largest heritage conservation projects in South Asian history.
Current Status (2026)
Kathmandu Durbar Square: Kasthamandap has been fully reconstructed using traditional methods. The Hanuman Dhoka Palace is partially accessible. Several smaller temples remain under scaffolding. The overall experience is a mix of restored splendor and active construction.
Patan Durbar Square: The Royal Palace and Patan Museum were restored relatively quickly and are in excellent condition. The Krishna Mandir required minimal work. Several smaller temples have been rebuilt or are in advanced stages of restoration.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square: The Nyatapola Temple needed only minor repairs. The 55 Window Palace is largely restored. The Vatsala Temple, which collapsed entirely, has been partially reconstructed. The broader old town has seen extensive rebuilding of traditional Newari houses.
Restoration as Part of the Experience
Newari Architecture and Culture
The three Durbar Squares are the supreme expression of Newari civilization, the indigenous culture of the Kathmandu Valley. Understanding a few key architectural and cultural concepts enriches your visit enormously.
Pagoda Architecture
The multi-tiered pagoda temple -- with its distinctive sloping roofs, carved wooden struts (tundals), and ornate doorways -- was a Newari invention. It is widely believed that the Nepali architect Arniko brought this style to China in the 13th century, where it evolved into the familiar Chinese and Japanese pagoda. When you look at the Nyatapola Temple in Bhaktapur, you are seeing the origin point of an architectural tradition that spread across East Asia.
Woodcarving Traditions
Newari woodcarving is among the most elaborate in the world. The erotic carvings on temple struts are often the most discussed -- they serve both as fertility symbols and, according to tradition, as protection against Indra's lightning (the goddess of lightning being a virgin who would look away in embarrassment). But the true mastery is in the geometric latticework of the palace windows, the mythological narrative panels, and the torana (decorative arches) above temple doors.
Living Heritage
Unlike many heritage sites around the world, the Durbar Squares are not museums. They are living religious and social spaces. Locals perform daily pujas at the temple shrines, festivals fill the squares with dancers and musicians throughout the year, and the surrounding neighborhoods maintain traditional occupations: metalworking in Patan, pottery in Bhaktapur, woodcarving throughout the valley.
Photography Tips for the Durbar Squares
The Durbar Squares are among the most photogenic sites in Nepal, and trekkers arriving with cameras honed by mountain photography will find rich subjects here. See our photography etiquette guide for broader Nepal photography tips.
Best Light Conditions
- Morning golden hour (6:30-8:00 AM): The east-facing facades of Bhaktapur's Nyatapola and Patan's Krishna Mandir glow in warm light. This is the best time for architectural photography.
- Late afternoon (4:00-5:30 PM): Side-lighting emphasizes the depth of carved woodwork. Kathmandu Durbar Square's western temples catch the last light beautifully.
- Overcast days: Actually excellent for detail photography, as the diffuse light eliminates harsh shadows on intricate carvings.
Composition Suggestions
- Frame temple doorways as leading-line compositions drawing the eye to inner courtyards
- Use the stepped bases of temples (especially Nyatapola) for strong geometric foregrounds
- Capture the human scale by including worshippers, potters, or children playing against the massive temple backdrops
- The reflections in Patan's courtyard water features add dimension on calm mornings
Etiquette Reminders
- Never photograph the Kumari at Kathmandu Durbar Square
- Ask permission before photographing sadhus or locals performing religious rituals
- Do not climb on temple structures for photographs
- Cremation sites at some temples should be treated with the same respect as at Pashupatinath
Getting to the Three Durbar Squares
From Thamel
Kathmandu Durbar Square: Walk south through the old bazaar streets of Indra Chowk and Asan Tole (20-25 minutes), or take a taxi (NPR 300-500, 10 minutes). Walking is recommended for the experience.
Patan Durbar Square: Taxi from Thamel costs NPR 600-800 (20-25 minutes). You can also take a local bus from Ratna Park, but taxis are far more convenient with the time savings.
Bhaktapur: Taxi from Thamel costs NPR 2,000-3,000 one way (40-60 minutes depending on traffic). Negotiate a round-trip fare with waiting time (NPR 4,000-5,000) or arrange a return taxi through your hotel.
Between the Squares
Kathmandu to Patan: NPR 400-600 by taxi (15-20 minutes). This is the shortest inter-square journey.
Patan to Bhaktapur: NPR 1,500-2,000 by taxi (30-45 minutes). The ring road route is faster than cutting through central Kathmandu.
Kathmandu to Bhaktapur: NPR 2,000-3,000 by taxi (40-60 minutes). The eastern road passes near Pashupatinath and Boudhanath.
Hire a Full-Day Taxi
Best Time to Visit the Durbar Squares
Seasonally
The Durbar Squares are worth visiting year-round, but conditions vary:
- October-November: The best overall conditions. Clear post-monsoon skies mean sharp light for photography, and the pleasant temperatures (15-25 degrees Celsius) make walking comfortable. This coincides with the Dashain and Tihar festivals, when the squares come alive with celebrations.
- March-May: Spring brings warm weather and rhododendron blooms in nearby hills. Haze can reduce photographic clarity, but the vibrant festival calendar (Holi in March, Nepali New Year in April) adds energy.
- December-February: Winter brings crisp, clear mornings ideal for photography, but temperatures drop below 5 degrees Celsius at dawn. The squares are less crowded, which many photographers prefer.
- June-September: The monsoon brings rain that can interrupt visits, but the wet stone and fresh greenery create atmospheric conditions. Crowds are at their lowest.
Within the Day
- 6:00-8:00 AM: Best light, fewest tourists, most authentic local activity
- 10:00 AM-2:00 PM: Peak tourist hours; avoid if possible during high season
- 4:00-6:00 PM: Good light returns, evening puja ceremonies begin
Festival Closures
Combining Durbar Squares with Your Trek Schedule
Pre-Trek Day (Arriving from International Flight)
If you have one day before your trek starts:
- Morning: Walk to Kathmandu Durbar Square from Thamel (20 min walk + 1.5 hours exploring)
- Late morning: Return to Thamel for final gear shopping and permit arrangements
- Afternoon: Rest and prepare for your trek
This keeps the day gentle and close to base, avoiding the fatigue of distant travel.
Post-Trek Day (Before Departure)
If you have one day after returning from your trek:
- Morning: Taxi to Patan Durbar Square (2-3 hours including museum)
- Lunch: Rooftop restaurant overlooking the square
- Afternoon: Return via Kathmandu Durbar Square or rest at hotel
Post-trek legs appreciate the flat terrain, and the cultural stimulation provides a satisfying conclusion to your Nepal experience.
Dedicated Heritage Day (Between Treks or Extended Stay)
If you have a full day dedicated to heritage:
- Early morning (6:30 AM): Taxi to Bhaktapur. Explore for 3-4 hours.
- Late morning: Return via Boudhanath for the kora circuit (1 hour)
- Lunch: Near Boudhanath or Patan
- Afternoon: Patan Durbar Square and museum (2 hours)
- Evening: Return to Thamel